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The only reasons I can come up with to loosen the axle nut are: a) you can't support the upper control arm. If you don't support it, the suspension droops a bit more than needed, and makes the BJs a problem. b) you're afraid of pulling the tripod bearing from the cup. That's a valid concern, but if you're only changing one BJ at a time, and you don't remove the tie rod end, you really can't get the bearing out of the cup, unless the boot is already torn or weak.
Upper control arm bushings are not hard, other than access to them with the motor in place. Leave the car resting on the wheels. No jack, no jackstands. This keeps the spring where it belongs. Do only one bushing at a time, though you may have to loosen the other one on the same arm. You can use your knees to move the tire and suspension a bit to make putting it all back together easy (leaning over the fender). Just put the shims back where they came from, and you're good to go.
As for the bolts: 1/2" drive impact wrench, every time...
Except for the axle nut. Loooooooong breaker with socket for that one. Loosen by lifting the bar, not pressing down on it... The self-locking ones usually loosen right up. Sears has a 1/2" torque wrench that goes to 225 or 250 foot-lbs...
_______________________________________
Current:
2002 9-5 Aero Kombi Cosmic Blue
2000 9-5 SE sedan, Imola Red
1990 900S Rose Quartz, Auto
Past:
1999 9-5 LPT Combi
1999 9-5 LPT sedan
2002 9-5 Arc
1990 900 5-speed
1986 900 turbo Convertible
1991 9000 turbo
1980 99 GLi
1986 900 turbo
1986 900 S
1991 900 turbo
1984 900 turbo
1976 99 GL
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