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nope
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Posted by Siegfried (more from Siegfried) on Mon, 14 Jul 2014 09:33:23 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: just make sure 12 volts come to #7 fuse (n/m), Name Left Blank, Mon, 14 Jul 2014 09:19:13
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Stinsonad,
if you have a short-circuit, then with the new wire from fuse#7 to flasher#49 you'll still have a short-circuit. If you have a (semi)broken wire, then with the new wire you'll get it fixed.
You can see the wire routing in the electric diagrams in the Bentley or Saab factory manual: +12 volts come (*) to the fuse#7 and then making it thru the 152B bulkhead connector go to the hazard button - and finally to the #49 pin of the flasher relay connector. #31 is the ground and #49A goes grounded (thru all those bulbs) either with the stalk thing or the hazard lights button.


Zig

(*)
That's why I earlier said to check if 12 (or 14 if the engine's running) volts come to the #7 fuse: if you have about the same 7 volt there then it means that the problem is somewhere before #7 fuse, like between the blackbox and the ignition key lock. Or contactor in the ignition lock. Or between the distributor panel on the RH fender and the ignition lock (but this one is the least probable since otherwise you'd have lot's of other issues like hardly being able to horn out or start the engine).

Note bene: you must measure all the voltages under the load, i.e. having a relay/fuse/motor/bulb in the circuit, connected to the connector DUT. But sometimes - and this time it's it - you should also do the voltage measurement without the load, i.e. having the relay/fuse/motor/bulb removed from the circuit.

posted by 5.18.17...

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