1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I have used FJC products for many years.
On OG Saab 900's, I use FJC 2443 DyEstercool (8 oz.) or FJC 2408 Estercool (8 oz.) The 2443 has a dye in the oil where the 2408 does not. The dye makes it easier to identify where a leak comes from.
You should be able to source it from Amazon for prox. $ 7.00 with shipping
http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2408-Estercool-Oil-bottle/dp/B000OCHBFQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432177822&sr=8-1&keywords=ester+oil+8+oz
You should always change both the RCVR/Dryer and the TXV.
You can not flush either one and, with age, sometimes the dessicant bag opens and fouls the system. If it is the original TXV, it has a fine metal screen mesh that, if the valve doesn't clog the mesh will.
When you replace the RCVR/Dryer, try to find an older branded Parker since they were still made in the states and have always been reliable. I've seen them on Ebay more often then not. Unfortunately, i have had mixed luck with Chinese made items. If you have your knickers in a bunch and can not wait, use products made by Four Seasons, they are more expensive but somewhat reliable.
It is essential that you flush the system. This is relatively a simple procedure and you MUST NOT ATTEMPT to remove the hoses from the A/C condensor. The condensor is aluminum and the hose ends are steel and you will strip the threads of the condensor attempting to remove it (electrolytic reaction due to dissimilar metals).
If you own a half way decent air compressor, (20 gal or bigger), you can get a flush gun setup for prox $ 25.
Lastly, in order to change the TXV, you will need to remove the A/C evaporator which is simple provided you have a floor jack that you can lift the engine from underneath SLIGHTLY. This is important because you need to run spray from a water hose through the fins to clean out accumulated dirt (using DAWN soap detergent as a mild cleaning agent) as well as flushing out the cavity that the evaporator fit into. There is also a thin black rubber hose that is the drain from the evaporator that forever gets clogged with detrius from bus and leaves and causes the condensate to back up and freeze the evaporator and diminish the flow of air over the fins.
Are you planning on doing the work yourself ?
If you are patient and do the work diligently, it is relatively easy and you will be rewarded with an exceptional system.
I have done well over a dozen complete R134 conversions on the OG's and they are reliable - with the temp getting down to as low as 28 deg. and tripping the freeze sensor on the evap. (although typically is 30 - 32F)
Robert
posted by 67.189.179...
, Wed, 20 May 2015 14:18:56, Wed, 20 May 2015 16:46:53
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