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Re: Trunk Lock Results ....... Posted by eric in vermont [Email] (#2058) [Profile/Gallery] (more from eric in vermont) on Tue, 25 Jun 2019 14:33:56 In Reply to: Re: Doesn't that year CV also have the "valet lock switch" ......., Roger D [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 25 Jun 2019 05:59:55 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Not sure I have root cause, but I have my educated guess as to the problem.
I pulled both license plate lights (T10 screws- exactly right) and fished around but couldn't get it to unlock. I then went back to cycling the lock solenoid via the central lock switch and trying the key in various positions. After about 10 minutes of this, viola! it opens up!!
I then did a little troubleshooting from the inside. First, I think I can now see how to open it through the licence plate light hole. I practiced a little bit and think I could open it if it locks up again. And it IS the driver's side as you said.
Next, I find out that the lock solenoid has two positions, Switch ON- Pulled In and Switch OFF- pushed out.
Next, the key has 3 positions- horizontal, vertical and 2PM.
The trunk will only open with two combinations of the above:
1) Switch On, Solenoid Pulled In, key in 2PM position
2) Switch Off, Solenoid Pushed Out, key in horizontal position
In my case, I think the solenoid is weak and hangs up in the middle. I can't be 100% sure. But that's what I think. And maybe it explains the battery drain. Maybe.
So I decided to electrically disconnect the solenoid with it in the fully out position. Key horizontal, trunk opens. Key vertical, trunk is locked. Hopefully, that works.
One other observation: on the back of the lock mechanism is a plastic/nylon arm. It's a bit loose on the pin it hangs on. Could that slop be part of the problem? I can't really see well enough to understand it's function, but when the key is turned in the lock the arm moves to a new position.
Thanks again for the advice!
eric in vermont
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