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The setups are pretty much the same. There are two-and-a-half main types:
1) pure electrical: You replace the oil pressure warning switch with a sender unit, and run a wire to where your gauge is. You'll also need to run several other wires for the +12v, ground, and light at the gauge. Get a sender that also has a terminal for the warning light, so you don't lose that. Gauges are great, but you're not always staring at them, right?
2) pure mechanical: you replace the warning light sender with a tee-fitting, and thread the warning light sender into one port on the tee. The other port on the tee goes to a line into the cabin that carries the oil to the gauge. Just like the turbo gauge on a 9000, the oil pressure is read right at the gauge. In using this kind, never use the cheap plastic line, unless you want to find your carpet full of oil one day. Get good-quality lines. You still need to run wires for lights.
2.5) hybrid: these use an electrical sender, but the sender is mounted away from the block. Same wiring requirements as the electricals.
Most electrical gauges have a needle sweep of 90 degrees (1/4 of a circle). Most mechanical gauges have a sweep of 270 degrees (3/4 of a circle). What this means is that small differences - say, 5 PSI - are more evident on the mechanical gauge. Some companies offer electrical gauges with a 270 degree sweep.
Don't get more gauge than you need. A Saab will be fine with an 80 PSI or 100 PSI gauge. The overpressure valve dumps at something below 80, so buying a 150 PSI gauge is just reducing the sweep of your needle by half, as it'll never see the high part of that.
Good luck!
_______________________________________
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(#1140) 
[Profile/Gallery]
(more from Larry West) on Fri, 14 May 2010 11:05:34
