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Re: Troubleshoot the P0135 Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Sat, 31 Aug 2013 19:22:01
In Reply to: Re: Troubleshoot the P0135, JerseySaab [Profile/Gallery]
, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 18:16:01
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You can confirm your splices are good by testing the resistance at pins 1 and 2 of the sensor's connector. If the splices are good then you'll still get about 4 ohms.
The sensor heater gets both its power supply and its ground from the ECU. The tests below are made on the connector that comes from the ECU, with the battery probed by the other end of the test lamp. Be careful, you don't want to fry your ECU or shock yourself! Here are the instructions verbatim from the Trionic OBD II manual.
Check the heating circuit ground connection and power supply
--Unplug the oxygen sensor's 4-pin connector
--Start the engine and run it at idling speed
--Connect the test lamp to:
. pin 1 and B-
. B+ and pin 2
Does the test lamp light up in both cases?
Yes - Change the sensor and continue with point 4
No - Rectify the lead in question and proceed to point 4
Point 4 in case you're wondering is an instruction to clear the diagnostic trouble code, drive the car at various loads and rpms for 5 minutes, confirm that the monitors have run, and see if the fault returns.
Here's what I think is the logic behind the tests above: Pin 1 supplies 12V current from fuse 28. Assuming the ECU has activated the heater circuit the test lamp should light up with one probe on pin 1 and the other on the battery's ground terminal (B-). If it does not light up, then there is a break somewhere between fuse 28 and the sensor connector. Pin 2 is the ECU's ground connection for the sensor's heater circuit. Assuming this is a good ground, the test lamp should light up with one probe on pin 2 and the other on the battery's positive terminal (B+). If the light doesn't turn on, then there is a break somewhere between the sensor connector's ground pin and wherever it ultimately grounds - or at the ground itself. The diagnostic assumes that if the lamp turns on during both tests, then the sensor is bad. But you know the sensor is new.
One more thing. If there was a problem with the heater circuit in the rear O2 sensor, then the code for that would be P0141. The troubleshooting instructions are the same for the P0141 except that it specifies that while the engine is idling the coolant temperature must be above 122 degrees F.
I hope this procedure produces a useful clue. It's hard to feel the love when the OBD II gremlins are acting up.
, Fri, 30 Aug 2013 10:09:32, Fri, 30 Aug 2013 21:05:42, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 13:36:40, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 15:31:41, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 18:16:01, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 19:22:01 <-- Viewing This Message, Sat, 31 Aug 2013 07:38:19, Fri, 30 Aug 2013 14:35:38
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