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Re: DougM....bodywork and buying a welder?? Posted by DougM [Email] (#211) [Profile/Gallery] (more from DougM) on Sun, 20 May 2007 18:32:50 In Reply to: DougM....bodywork and buying a welder??, Gery, Sun, 20 May 2007 14:47:39 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I can't really comment on TIG welding, as I have never done it, nor have I heard of ANY body shop using that process to repair cars.
What you want is the lowest heat possible when welding, especially on a Saab with their all-welded construction. Low heat means less chance to warp an entire panel of the car, which would create an oil can effect, requiring the use of fillers to "fill" the warpage. I try to weld my patches solid, but I spot it in until the entire length is welded. I have also used a wet rag to cool the weld afterwards to keep the heat down. If you run a continuous bead, even as small as 1/2", you WILL warp the whole panel...trust me on this one as I know!
I've been welding on Saabs for over 20 years, and I think the key to any patch panel looking its best after many years is sealing the repair from behind. Seam sealer works great for this purpose. If you seal it from both sides(filler on one side and seam sealer on the back) you will keep the moisture out of the joint, thus reducing the chance of it affecting the weld seam, or causing corrosion at the weld seam(getting in from behind). Weld-thru primer is another way to keep the weld seam coated, but I would still seam seal the back side anyway.
No bondo? Will applying lead cause you to heat up the whole panel? Read above about too much heat and what it will do to a body panel on a Saab.
Buy a MIG.
I have 100's of pics of welding on a 99, but you may have already seen them?
posted by 76.189.134...
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