1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Profile/Gallery]
, Sat, 10 Nov 2007 05:39:39
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
Gery, This is far from a Dumb question. This is the type of thing you need to always keep in mind . I just re-read all your postings, and it gets a bit confusing. So, I'll assume you have Fuel flow based on the starter valve test.I'll have to do the same Based on your spark tests that your ignition is OK. There are 4 things needed for it to start. Ignition, Fuel, Djet system, and Engine. I think If I were at the car Right now, I'd start with a compression tester for the engine catagory to eliminate a compression issue such as shimming the cam. So, I'll assume you have a D-jet Issue. That being said, 19 clicks isn't good. You have a Haynes...adjust it with the meter on tone to the proper position via the haynes manual. Then check and adjust again until 20 is reached. That broken throttle stop Isn't Good That could possibly be repaired with some of that JB Weld epoxy putty that comes in a tube. Have you got a remote starter tool? If not, get one. It makes everything way easier. You can get a cheap one for about $35 at a parts store. You also Need a Good Meter (true RMS) to get the milliamp readings on the injectors as described in the manuals. If the injectors have correct voltages, and go from highs to lows, Your trigger points are good. You could also OHM them out by hand removed, and manually closing the points, or by Doing the same with a remote starter from the distributor plug. Just check the Injector voltages as desrcibed in the manuals remembering they are in pairs, so check all injectors to see both triggers are good and you will also find out and confirm injector voltage being good. For Now, GO BACK TO WHERE I SAID...Spray the contacts, Cut and rework that wire. At 19, it might start and run. You will get poor perfomance, fuel economy and fouled plugs at 19. Sound Familiar? But we now know that is an issue you've had since you got the car. That can't be danced around. What we need to confirm now, is that you actually have power to the D-jet. Check to see if you have power at the main relay as you crank it (that's the wire cut). Then you can check from there forward. Pay very close attention to every connector as you check things!! I have found bad connectors though the years at almost every Djet area. That's why I suggested going through all those connections. If your thinking you need one of those Bosche D-jet testers Doug mentioned, You Don't.I just passed on one of those not more than a month ago because they aren't needed. Stay away from the computer connector and harness as much as possible. I've repaired pin connectors at that harness and it is a pain in the ass, that's why I pass on that tester as good as it may be. The thicker the wire cluster is, the more hardend and brittle it can become over time. That's the thickest point in the car. As far as the computer goes...Does the one in there now have the same part number on it?
posted by 4.154.242...
, Sat, 10 Nov 2007 05:39:39, Sun, 11 Nov 2007 08:08:17, Sun, 11 Nov 2007 14:33:34
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
