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You have the alignment readouts?
The best objective is not to get the offending wheel in spec, but matching the camber of the other side. By eliminating the difference or cross camber, you eliminate cross camber rear axle steering effects or pulling.
If the rear toe-in's are acceptable:
Calculate the angle change needed across the hub to axle bolt spacing.
Calculate the thickness of a shim on the hub to axle bolts that would change the hub angle by that amount and install the shims.
GM N-body shims have been reported to work for this. Or you could make your own. Good hardware stores also carry shim stock that you can cut yourself. The contact profile of the shims will drive the calculations.
If I were doing this, afterwards, I would take some measures to seal the gaps introduced by the shims.
If you had a good hand at such things, you could measure the flange and calc what to remove and file off material from the flange to correct the angle. WIS suggests that there is a spacer between the axle and the hub. If that is true, and if the space is manufactured with an angle in it, perhaps it was simply oriented wrong *. Otherwise, filing and measuring the spacer would be easy. You could also 'lap' it flat with wet/dry sandpaper, using water or soapy water, with the sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface. This can true things up after getting the angle in with a file.
* WIS says nothing of that. EPC shows shims, not spacers. P/Ns 4908174 and 4908166. So no agreement there, but that is no surprise. You might get more info about what those shims are someplace else. Somehow, they might just be the N-body shims. Alignement shops should have or be able to get these and might have better info about how to use and different combos to get different corrections etc.
And, has anyone checked to see if the hub is improperly bolted up and simply not fastened right or tigthly and sitting cock-eyed?
WIS suggests using new nuts for the hub. One might do that or use loctite blue. But if you use new nuts, only apply after all iterations and trials are complete. You might need more than one go at this.
If you use shims or modify a spacer (if such exists), then mark such things with top/bottom if there is any need for that. If shims are sold in top/bottom sets and are themselves tappered, that would be much better that using constant thickness shims of different thickness. Please post details about such things if you go this route.
You should be able to get a good result for little cost and this could be a good DIY job for those inclined.
posted by 68.95.119...
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