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It was the clutch master. I changed it myself. Not a difficult job. I pressure bled the clutch circuit, then kept it overnight with the clutch half depressed (using a squeeze-type Irwin clamp turned to spread instead of compress, a couple of 1x4's against the front of the driver's seat), then bled again. Clutch feels great.
A few notes about the job: There are two nuts holding the clutch pedal to the firewall, both accessible from the engine side. The one that is above and to the passenger (LHD car) side of the clutch pedal is a pain - I ended up using a shorty end wrench and a lever (screwdriver) to turn the wrench. When you order your clutch master, make sure to also order the o-ring for the delivery pipe. Take the old o-ring off with a plastic tool, not metal. I also greased the clutch pedal pivot points when I had it out, and it's smooth as butter now.
The most difficult part of the job is probably removing the ventilation duct that goes to the left side vent. You have to do this to remove the clutch pedal. Very stubborn, and I was afraid I would break it. Once you have the ductwork out, you can see the nut that secures the very top of the clutch pedal, which should be the last one you remove.
When bleeding the clutch, the hose that carries brake fluid from the reservoir to the clutch master comes out of the reservoir at a very shallow depth. You can't let the brake fluid level drop much while bleeding, before you re-fill. I ran a clear vinyl tube from the bleeding nipple at the bell housing, bringing it forward and upward, then an arc and down into a receptacle sitting to the driver's side of the turbo. That way, I could see bubbles as they emerged.
posted by 98.127.25...
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