sid wrote:
<<The way the car stops may suggest which path to follow.  'Sudden stop'?
 Does the tach go to zero instaneously or does the car try to run
erratically finally dying? >>

Yes, the tach DOES go to zero at the same time the car stalls. It does NOT chug
or run erratically. So from your comments it sounds like the tach going to zero
points toward an 'electrical' problem rather than 'fuel'.

> <<The problem is related to either the electrical or fuel system.  Random
> replacement of parts is costly and hit or miss, generally the latter.
>
>   When it dies and you try to restart does the engine try to fire albeit
> unsuccessfully?>>

Yes, yes. that is it.

> << Does it cough, sputter but not catch? >>

> There is no coughing, sputtering.

> << Common electrical problems are failing coils which open at high temps,
> shorting distributor caps and worn distributor rotor.

>  I operate on the theory that the simpler explanation is more likely so
> rather then starting with complex components work back from the easier ones.
> Rotor caps, coils, rotors, fuel filters etc. are a lot less expensive then
> fuel pumps and computers.>>

Well, we've been VERY fortunate in getting 2 different types of used ignition
modules to try. We have also been fortunate in that both parts companies have
agreed to take their used part back if the part doesn't fix the car...! We have
a 3rd used module coming by UPS tomorrow - it's the EZK unit which sits on the
driver side fender wall. There again we will be able to return it for 20%
re-stocking fee.

I think we're spending more $ on fuel running 2 vehicles to test  the parts til
the Saab does its 'sudden engine stop.'  My husband is losing his cool in
frustration of finding the problem.

We're going to our very friendly mechanic tomorrow and find out where the rotor
caps, coils, and rotors are to see if we can change them ourselves... We have
been dealing with 3 different shops here in Central Maine (2 dealers: Clyde
Billings in Augusta and Coldbrook in Skowhegan;  and our foreign import
mechanic: Gary Bryant in Farmington) - they have all been wonderful in trying
to help us and have invested much time. In the end they told us it was trial
and error, the parts were so expensive and being for an older car they didn't
want to get the part(s) in for an older car if the part wasn't the 'fix.' Not
one of the three shops charged us a penny. They have also been answering all
our questions as we go along calling around for parts and installing the parts.

> We have a voltmeter. Is that what we need to test the coil(s)? and can we do
> the testing?

> <<Also get the oil/ trans fluid leak fixed as engines and trannies are REALLY
>
> expensive.>>

Thanks much - we'll tackle the trans fluid leak when we can get this problem
solved.

• Sudden Engine Stop, Cindy Johnson, Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:13:52
  • Re: Sudden Engine Stop, Cindy Johnson, Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:36:04
  • Re: Sudden Engine Stop, Ywan Mason, Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:20:49
  • RE: Sudden Engine Stop, sid, Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:56:13
  • Re: Sudden Engine Stop, Thor Carlson, Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:10:01

• Prev by Date: Re: Sudden Engine Stop, Ywan Mason, Thu, 15 Jun 2000 09:20:49
• Next by Date: Clutch Master Cylinder, Spencer, Sat, 17 Jun 2000 10:22:15
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