2003-2011 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
They all have provisions to lower and raise and lock the top if the system doesn't respond for some reason. They can all be done by one person, but to do it by yourself in a C900 you have to be really strong.
Over 50% of the SAABs we service are convertibles, so we are pretty quick with the common issues, but I know a lot of shops don't want anything to do with them.
The C900 convertibles are very robust, very sturdy mechanisms, but are very heavy. They don't have nearly as many problems as the later ones because there is very little 'protective logic' to the system, it doesn't monitor that the latches are actually locked before you start driving, that the seals are closed, things like that. The C900 top will usually either work, or not work, they don't suffer many intermittent issues because the system is so simple.
The NG900 is an electrical intensive system, a lot of the ones we see have fallen into some dis-repair - they show some symptoms of the various contact switches causing some problems, and some of the sliders and guides are made of plastic and crack apart in the hot weather like we have here, but most of those parts are really cheap, even from the dealership. The various sensors and contact switches that tell the computer what stage the top is in it's travel are not a huge deal to diagnose, if you have a place who knows the system.
The first gen. 9-3's are prone to hyrdaulic problems - the 4 main lift pistons will start to weep fluid at the shaft seals, and they are fairly prone to the little contact microswitches getting either bent out of position or failing altogether. It's common for these series tops to move partway through their travel, then stop and throw a code, and then you key-off and back on and it will keep moving through the travel. The hydraulic parts (pump, pistons, and bundle of 8 little supply lines) are VERY expensive, it's common for the set of pistons to go for $500-$800 USED for good ones. A decent hydraulic shop should be able to rebuild them for you, even better if you're in a rural area where there is an equipment service shop, like John Deere/CAT/International service center, those guys should have no problem with them. If the seals are leaky and you're handy, it takes 45 mins to an hour to pull the pump out and top the fluid off every once in a while, but it takes a very specific silicone based hydraulic fluid to keep everything happy that's $48/ltr at the dealer, but unless it's gushing you won't go through it that fast.
And the SS gen. 9-3 - these haven't been out long enough to see what the weak spots really are, but I will tell you that I've replaced 3 of the 1st bow locking pistons (the latches at the top of the windshield are actuated hydraulically now, rather than with a manual latch handle). The little piston has a really stupid pivot bushing built into one end, and they start to leak fluid at the bushing. It's right above the windscreen, and you end up getting a nice shower of hydraulic fluid all along the interior from the center console back to the rear seat, and then when it folds the fluid leaks out and sometimes gets into the canvas top from underneath, and you end up with a permanent oily/shiny spot on the front portion of the canvas roof. The salvage yards are privy that these pistons are the common ones to go out, and are usually charging something like $400 for a used one, new one from the dealer is over $600, and I had to wait 2 weeks for the last one to come in. SAAB also made getting to the pump a royal pain in the SS convertibles to fill the fluid back up, it's buried up against the passenger side rear inner fender well, under all the storage bag for the top and the trunk floor, and will take anywhere from 90 mins to 2 hours get it all out, fill it, and work the top back and forth to purge the air out, then top up the reservoir again. The 1st bow locking piston usually takes about 90 mins to 2 hours as well, so that ends up easily being over a $1,000 job if it goes out.
That being said, all the convertibles except the SS series drive like junk - they shake and shimmy and bounce all over the place, and the first time I drove my Viggen 'vert I thought all the wheels were square, but that's just how they are. Really floppy body and way too much compliance in everything. My fiancee didn't really notice though, but she's not nearly so critical (or sensitive) as I am.
The 9-3SS 'verts feel nearly as stiff as the sedans do - the first time I drove one of those I was absolutely amazed at the execution, and they don't have the nasty interior panel rattles that develop in the older ones yet either, much more refined - if your friend has to take clients out in the car or anything like that and a quiet comfortable cabin is what you have to have that's the way to go.
Best,
Drew
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