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Finally became a member to help support this site.. figured already got my $$ worth from a wealth of info thus far and more to come I'm sure...
After spending the better part of yesterday searching posts, then cleaning garage out major to get car in, finding dusty old 25 yr old heir werner floor jack, try to R&R it to lift again finally gave up, seals toasted.. then searching for decent compression test kit finding one at Sears (??), finally happy to pull car in garage and dug in about 8pm.. I wanted to check compression before anything was done..
I didn't pull TB intake hose for these tests.. should I have?
1st tests Cold,10 cranks with starter 2 times, then 8 cranks (was turning over real slow battery was low and charger not keeping up):
#1= 200 then 205 - 8 cranks 200
#2= 210 then 210 - 8 cranks 210
#3= 210 then 200 - 8 cranks 195
#4= 200 then 215 - 8 cranks 215
kind of all over the place readings..??
2nd tests after 8 minutes warm idling t-stat opened, 8 cranks of the starter 2 times:
#1= 210 x2
#2= 210 x2
#3= 210 x2
#4= 210 x2
I'm happy that they were all even after warming, but not sure what that relates to? Warming head sealing HG leaks some vs cold test leaking presure by HG in some cylinders? Seems comp readings are high from other posts in 175-190 range? WIS doesn't list compression range that I can find, perhaps Sears gage is junk/not accurate???
Regardless, when warm, all are even ..seems not bad for a 178K mile motor ?Still think will do head gasket seeing it overheated badly on me late last fall and at one point spraying coolant from #4 front badly.. not spraying now, but slow coolant loss?
The return intercooler hose to intake had about 1/4 cup oil(perhaps less) in bottom bend..
Also the bottom of the turbo inlet tube where connects to left of turbo all but fell off after removing top intake hose and oil was oozing out of it at turbo and o-ring was toast, the turbo must have been sucking air from that spot for a long time and found one source of my oil leaks..
also broke off top of heat guard stud on manifold in the process and other exhaust studs look like may break, will heat em first..
I could not remove the switch from the BCV, the switch cover (??)is tight and brittle so I removed the BCV for now attached to switch, any tricks to remove this without destroying the plug cover?? No clue how to test this BCV? For $54 should it be just be replaced for peace of mind? Same ?? for the bypass valve, test or just replace due to mileage??
That's about as far as I got when I stopped at 2AM today.. time to get at it and yank the turbo for starters..
thanks for listening, er reading..
, Mon, 25 May 2009 08:40:55, Mon, 25 May 2009 11:01:58, Tue, 26 May 2009 17:28:06, Sun, 24 May 2009 10:45:04
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