Toughest DIY Done! Rad, T'stat,,Cooler Lid. BUT... - Saab 9-5 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Toughest DIY Done! Rad, T'stat,,Cooler Lid. BUT...
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Posted by RegQ [Email] (more from RegQ) on Sun, 6 Sep 2009 16:29:10 Share Post by Email
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You may have seen some of my posts over the last few weeks regarding some repairs I DIY’ed on my 1999 9-9 SE V6. I am pleased to write that after M A N Y hours of work and time spent waiting for parts, I finally have completed the following…

1)New radiator (original catastrophic failure that triggered this whole adventure).

2)New upper and lower rad hoses. Included cutting lower hose for original in-line block heater.

3)New thermostat and housing. Major pain getting the cast metal coolant extension tube separated from the t’stat housing after 10 years with original o-rings in place.

4)Resealed leaking oil cooler lid. I found Permatex Ultra Grey silicone to be very high density, tough sealant that worked well for the lid seal (follow the instructions). The biggest pain was dealing with the rigid oil lines that have to be moved. The cooler ends are easy BUT the lower ends are obscured… one on the oil filter adaptor and WORSE, the other line requires the removal of the crank pos’n sensor and the round oil filter blanking cover on the face of the block BEHIND the turbo. What a giant pain to re-assemble. I had to cut a 19mm wrench in half and open up the box end to make a flare nut type device that I levered with the aid of another box end wrench slid over the end of the stubby cut wrench.

5)All new banjo bolt seals and o-rings wherever they were found upon disassembly. I did re-use the lower manifold seals but replaced the upper manifold gasket.

6)New PCV check valve. Old one broke at disassembly.

7)Repaired intermittent cabin fan motor by replacing brushed with some generic ones that need a bit of filing to make fit the brush holders.

Besides the oil cooler line challenge, I found getting the cast alum turbo inlet pipe back in placed with the rigid line banjo bolt line in particular almost impossible to refasten. In the end it took me nearly 2 hours for that alone.

No leaks at all that I can see which is wonderful considering how many things have to come apart to do all this. This took all the DIY experience, patience, and ingenuity that I could muster. So I am quite pleased with all I’ve accomplished and the money saved.

BUT, coincidentally, on about the 5th start after all was complete and the engine had cycled through a couple warm-ups, I heard a squeal, then a whine, then smelled a burning electrical smell! All quieted down so I went for a test drive only to have the battery no-charge light come on followed by a number of other warning lights and noticed the electric window moved VERY slowy. Obviously the battery was going flat. I can’t believe it but after 3 weeks of repair hell, my alternator seems to have packed it in! My stomach lurched since I know that alternator is a b*tch of a job on the V6, requiring the removal of the RH outer drive shaft! I almost can’t stand it.

Whimper,
Reg

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