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"CARma" LOL!
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Posted by RegQ [Email] (more from RegQ) on Mon, 7 Sep 2009 07:28:37 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Toughest DIY Done! Rad, T'stat,,Cooler Lid. BUT..., Georgeandkira, Mon, 7 Sep 2009 05:04:06
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Kira:

To answer your questions...

The oil cooler (called a heat exchanger in the V6 portion of the Saab WIS manual) consists of a stack of finned passage oil plates and oil pipe connections attached to an aluminum cover lid. See this eEuroparts link...

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4770988

Some folks have found oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil because the finned plates develop a leak between the coolant they are immersed in and the oil flowing through the plates. I did not have any internal leak. In my case, and many other I read, the seal of the lid to the top of the engine block leaks coolant. So because the lid can be resealed and the oil cooler costs nearly $500, I just did the lid re-seal. There are new o-ring seals around the connections that seal the cooler to the underside of the lid. I used the Permatex Ultra Grey silicone to seal the lid to the block. The coolant leak I had was happening for many years already. I just used the radiator failure as an opportunity to fix a number of smaller problems like this. I was tired of adding 250 ml of coolant mixture every month or so and the smell of hot leaking coolant was annoying at times.

The thermostat in my V6 Saab was erratic before the radiator blew. Because it is right next to the oil cooler lid, I decided to change it too. The t'stat comes in a new housing w/ a fresh o-ring for less than $30. See this other eEuroparts link...

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4623815

The blower brushes I used were some generic brushes I found at a local electric motor specialist. They had the number "CH6". They were too thick so I needed to grind off a tiny bit to make them slide into the Saab brush holder with a bit of clearance. Also the braided copper wire came out the side of the brush unlike the very end on the original Saab ones. This means they cannot wear as much before they bottom out but for $15 compared to $300 for a new motor, I can accept that!

Good CARma to you,
Reg

posted by 207.161.77...


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