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Re: Update on hard cranking and lights staying on in dash Posted by bobc [Email]  (#473)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from bobc) on Tue, 7 Jan 2014 22:12:01
In Reply to: Re: Update on hard cranking and lights staying on in dash, Kim J, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 20:40:12 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
ok, quite few things going on. Sorry to hear this, these are actually remarkably reliable cars for the most part.
Here is my two cents:
- ignition switch: I'd say its important that you ensure that it's popped up before leaving the car, especially considering all of the low voltage issues you are having. As you know already replacing the ignition switch is a sure cure. In the meantime have you tried cleaning it (brake cleaner does not leave a residue)? Or maybe lubing it(e.g. pb blaster or wd40 can messy and stinky)? pros and cons here but you really have nothing to loose and need to get that cylinder up.
also I have found that when my lock cylinder hangs up like yours I can usually coax it by engaging just the tip of the key and gently twisting it back and forth. The cylinder sort of "walks up" a little with each twist. eventually its reaches the top, "popped up" position.
- dash lights that are *not* on:
- blinkers ... does the "blink blink" sound happen? if so, given that the outside blinkers work I'm inclined to think that the bulb in the dash is burned out.
- Speedometer lights: does the entire speedometer go dark? or just part of it? there are two bulbs for the speedometer, from 0-80 and 80-150. And you know about the night panel button right (it turns off the gauges and 80-150 portion of the speedometer)
one caveat: I believe that in 2002 they switched to LED dash lighting, and Im not sure if those are prone to burn out like the old school bulbs are.
- radio: so the radio does not work but the speaker/channel diagnostic does (on+radio puts it in diagnostic mode). Hell of a diagnostic right? In that case I agree pulling the radio, re-seating and checking grounds etc is a good next step.
- dash lights that *are* on:
- you might have the "abs trifecta" ... all 3 of these lights on: the "Red Triangle warning light", the "TCS Off" light and the "ABS" light. This generally means that the ABS control module is bad. This is a fairly easy and fairly inexpensive fix. it module can be sent out to be rebuilt (<$150).
- you mention the air bag light. that one will require someone with a tech II to read the code.
- hard cranking etc etc: If you have not already, check if the throttle body is in limp home mode. then check for leaks in the intake, like a loose intake pipe, and/or cracked hoses. Common signs of being in limp home mode is
- the check engine light will be on
- the cruise control will not engage
- the car is generally hard to start and prone to stalling at idle.
Note that if you are in limp home mode the car may start easier if you apply partial throttle.
- low voltage general malaise: I think I saw that a local mechanic checked your positive cable, battery, alternator and maybe the neg cable and main ground as well, and declared all as ok. is that correct?
sorry you are having so many issues, it must be quite frustrating. This is a 2003 Aero? how many miles?
_______________________________________ '08 9⁵ 2.3T SportCombi, Polar White '01 9⁵ Aero Midnight Blue (benched) '00 9⁵ Aero Midnight Blue (rescued) '99 9⁵ Base model, Cosmic blue '00 9⁵ Aero Silver (RIP - transmission )
, Thu, 9 Jan 2014 07:55:32
, Fri, 10 Jan 2014 06:20:48, Fri, 10 Jan 2014 17:33:53, Wed, 8 Jan 2014 17:24:47, Wed, 8 Jan 2014 17:35:03, Thu, 9 Jan 2014 10:32:00, Thu, 9 Jan 2014 07:58:22, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 20:24:25, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 20:11:22, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 22:12:01 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 8 Jan 2014 17:35:39, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 17:17:26
, Tue, 7 Jan 2014 16:19:17
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