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drs_install <my tag>
2003 Aero Wagon 85,500 miles
Some later years do not have access cover, need to drain and drop the tank.
I used this hose:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FP-HoseKit
Which is two hoses and 4 clamps! Flexible and great economy relative to $30 per foot gates hose. You need a submersible rated hose. Other hoses will fail.
Back vehicle out garage, well clear of structures and hopefully exposed to wind. [ fire risk and ventilation ]
Move the front seats forward
Flip up the the rear seats, disconnect seat heater connectors if so equipped. Remove red retainers, shift seats, remove and stage in the trunk area.
Remove pump access cover with flat blade screw driver, remove steel cover from rubber surround, remove rubber surround, fit back on steel cover and set aside.
There should be a steel tee piece holding down the fuel connector, remove that and its screw, probably #2 Phillips head.
Disconnect the wiring harness connector. No need to remove the connector at the pump bulkhead.
Remove the fuel line connectors by pulling the plastic retainers back and pulling up as you rotate back and forth. Not easy, do not apply sideways loads as they might break!!!.
Brush and vacuum dirt.
Take digital pictures. Note the bar pointing to passenger door. That points to the lever float end.
Place ends of water pump pliers into the retaining ring and with another lever, unscrew the ring counter clockwise. This was easy for me. O-ring would have have taken a compression set and reduced forces.
Vac again.
Rotate pump clockwise 80-90 decrees. Now pretend that you know how to remove the pump. There is a line that will need to be pinched to get it out. The float arm is now pointing to the rear of the vehicle, so as you start to get it out, you will need to tilt it to accommodate the float arm.
Have lots of rags around for fuel spills. Also some cardboard sheets. The bottom of the assembly is like a bucket and holds around a US quart of fuel. As you struggle to remove the pump and tilt it, that wants to spill. As you are getting the pump out, push more rags into place.
When you get the pump out, go back and get the large O-Ring, wipe and set the aside. Place the cover plate loosely over the access hole to reduce fumes.
Tilt assembly over a container to catch fuel.
Take a few pictures of the pump. Note the clock angel of the pumps hose barb and wiring connectors. The connector spades are different widths and cannot be mixed up.
Separate the top end from the bucket by depressing the plastic retainer tabs. Remove the "bucket".
Take more pictures.
Separate the steel strips from the lower business by prying up on the provided details to allow that.
Take more pics. Noting clock angle of pump again.
Remove strainer from pump, note how one tube fits in the other.
Remove the rubber part that holds the pump from the top plate. If things are getting dry, create witness marks with marker or knife scratches.
Now you need a submersible fuel line and clamps. I used a flex line used for BMW motorcycles that came with clamps, see beginning of text.
Cut the old line at the plastic tee and remove pump, you might need to cut the line near the old pump's hose barb.
Remove the wire connectors at old pump.
Remove pump from its rubber top mount and fit the top mount the same way on new pump.
Place pump and top rubber mount into top place and attach wiring connectors.
The fuel line length is something that you need to work out.
Remove stub of old line from the plastic tee. If you get a knife point in tangential to the tee hose barb, you can slit the hose with no damage to the tee. Use a shop rag to shield your other hand!
The hose kit that I got had two hoses and four clamps. I double clamped the hoses and made those very tight, whatever that means to you...
Got a flashlight and removed the disintegrating fuel baffle. That is a bit of a struggle, have lots of spill rags broadly distributed.
Pump was a PIA to remove. Inspected the hole and notes that the opening was not cleanly finished. Removed burrs and cleaned up with a sharp knife, retrieving trimmings.
Pump goes in the same as removal, but easier. Index so the marker points to the passenger door. But put the O-ring in first!. I cleaned the retainer ring and lightly put on some silicone lube on the thread and the bottom bearing face [optional]. Tighten up. How tight? [Use your judgement.]
Connect wiring and then hoses that should be over the wiring. Apply the retaining tee and screw. Do not apply cover now.
The fitting of the connectors can take a lot of force. I put some silicone grease on the O-rings, fitted and removed. Wiped silicone from below the lower o-ring [cat converter issue] and refitted. The connects are then easy to install and should be easier to service in the future.
I had trouble getting the engine to run. I think that I should have poured some fuel into the pump assembly's bucket!
So what follows is predicated on the above.
I had to turn on the ignition many times to get the pump to run 2 seconds each time. If you crank and it will not start, the pump runs for 5 seconds after the engine "stalls". Eventually, a long time, the engine got fuel. When you turn on the ignition, you can hear the pump start up and you can reach back and put your hand on the pump and feel that it is running.
Get maker and note service and date on bottom of cover, or top if you wish, make note in service book.
To install the cover, with the rubber on the cover, work in the vehicle forward end then simply press it in place, quite easy.
If there is any fuel on the carpet, leave the doors/windows open and let things air out before you replace the seating. At this time, you can vacuum and/or shampoo the rear seating area.
I will be doing this again for the other 9-5 that we have and fuel filters.
* About the other posts that we have here that have trouble getting an engine start on a new fuel pump. *
I think that one might easily conclude that a pump is no good when its really a problem of priming the pump. Someone here might point out that one needs to fill the "bucket" during installation. I have a good battery charger and used that during my learning curve.
posted by 108.207.11...
1
, Sat, 17 May 2014 16:30:30
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