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Return of Right Rear Tail Light issues Posted by MI-Roger [Email]  (#882) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from MI-Roger) on Fri, 22 May 2020 17:27:12
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This problem first surfaced a year or so ago when, after replacing all rear lamps, I continued to receive a "Rear Light Failure" message every time I turned on the headlights. I was unable to find the source and then it simply went away. Ok, I knew the problem was likely still there, and would haunt me in the future. The future is now..
While installing the trailer wiring harness on Wednesday, I removed the right rear lamps to probe the lamp board to verify which wire performed which function. Primarily because the right rear turn signal wire color did not match the WIS, so it was a game of testing all wire connections at the tiny connector to the lamp board to learn which did what. All splices were made in the left rear corner. Since both rear tail lamps illuminate together, why run across the width of the trunk? I did exactly what the instructions suggested, left side only for tail lights.
During this testing I noticed the pink wire, the right rear tail light wire, did not make proper connection with the lamp board. The wiring harness plug-in connector to the board is maybe 1/8 inch by 5/8-inches and it is pushed onto four fine gauge stabs on the board. I was unable to activate my 12V test light by placing the tip on the female jack inside the small connector body going to the lamp board. So either the connection inside the connector body is bad, or the wire is broken somewhere before that point. Likely close to the lamp board since the problem appeared both times after manipulating the board and the short pigtail feeding it.
So, how to fix?
My thoughts are to use a razor blade and make a small slit in the insulation of the pink wire a few inches upstream the connector body, then insert my 12V test lamp in this slit to see if voltage is present at this point. Assuming I have voltage, I will splice in a new wire from this point using a typical wire splice, measure out sufficient wire for the other end to reach the lamp board where metal conductor bars are visible which extend from the connector pins to the actual lamp sockets, then crimp a ring terminal on the other end of the wire and use a fine screw in a drilled and tapped hole to anchor this wire to the lamp panel conductor bar.
Any thoughts? Does this make sense? Has anyone else had to do a similar repair to get power to the lamp board with those sewing needle sized connector pins?
Thanks,
_______________________________________ Saabs owned: 2008 9-5 Aero Sedan, sold at 227K miles 2006 9-3SC 2.0T - Wife's daily driver 2000 Viggen Convertible - Sold May, 2022 1964 Quantum IV Formula Car - Retirement project 2000 9-5lpt Sedan, sold at 318K miles
, Fri, 22 May 2020 17:27:12 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sat, 23 May 2020 08:47:33, Sat, 23 May 2020 15:14:21
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