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Re: Wiring Harness Source Posted by JeffD [Email]  (#1885) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from JeffD) on Tue, 22 Dec 2015 09:55:12
In Reply to: Re: Wiring Harness Source, Haskell60  [Profile/Gallery]
, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 06:34:06
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Now, checking over the injection harness is a much easier task. I need to do it myself.
Ideally, you could just release the pins from the connectors with a release tool, slip on the boots, and repin the connectors. Since the harness is so easy to access, I'd think of it as a 30 minute job.
That said, plan on having wires break at the crimps (as did at my AIC, since it's at the front of the head and gets shoved around most), so pick up some pins and a crimp tool.
<Tech info>
The connector series for the injector connectors is the AMP Junior Power Timer series, used all over Bosch fuel-injection land. The VW and Porsche guys have all the same questions we do.
The pin release tool is an AMP/Tyco/TE Connectivity P/N 1-1579007-6. It goes in the front of the connector and pushes down the retention ears that keep the pin from otherwise pulling out the back. Take a look at it, and make one that looks like it with a coat hanger and a small file. I made one that worked after about 30 minutes of file-and-test.
The pins will release easily or not at all, so force isn't necessary - until the ears get mangled!
The pins are likely a TE/AMP 927771-3. (The JPT series has many different contact-identical pins that have different platings, and are for different wire sizes. These are tin plated, for 16-20AWG, and look like the injector pins. I haven't installed them yet.)
The crimper is for the TE/AMP Multimate III connectors, TE P/N 58495-1, according to Newark. For a crimper, it isn't expensive. :) I need to find an adequate substitute for my AIC connector, myself.
Since you mentioned that this is a full checkup for another 20 years of service, I'd recommend doing it as close to factory as possible. Since auto manufacturers still use the series, the engineering seems to have passed the test of time.
The cheapest way would be to buy pigtailed connectors, and cut-and-splice into your current harness. However, especially for solder connections, they'll naturally fatigue and break at the solder joints. Good butt-splices might work - but you're back into needing good splices at $.50/each and a 'real' crimper, also for 'real' money.
So, as usual, we're looking to replace what was $5 in parts at the factory, but need $400 in tools to make it happen!
, Mon, 21 Dec 2015 20:03:57, Mon, 21 Dec 2015 23:17:48, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 06:34:06, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 09:55:12 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 11:31:32, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 13:56:45
, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 07:06:53, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 14:01:00, Tue, 22 Dec 2015 19:26:47
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