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, Wed, 21 Apr 2021 12:06:39
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Hey Ed,
I opted to remove the engine and everything in the engine compartment. In hindsight, that might not have been necessary. I think it will a lot easier to see where the rust is, and where it isn't, with the engine out though. Removing the rust... I tried every method. Sandblaster, wire wheel, chemicals, dremel. The best method is definitely a drill with a wire wheel ($35 at Walmart) for the easy to access areas, and a dremel with a flexible attachment and several aluminum oxide bits for the "inner" areas ($50 on Amazon). You would need to remove the axles, lower control arms, and probably the steering rack at a minimum. If you have an air compressor, you can start by blowing compressed air to get all the sand and road debris out of the axle tunnel, which is where all the water collects. Use a big screwdriver to pry up the rust and find out how bad it is. On my car, all of the lower control arm bolt holes (six of them?) were intact, but the axle tunnel and surrounding areas were really starting to rust out. The passenger side is usually rusted out worse. You may want to start checking that side first. Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll post of photo of my prep right before I started MIG welding. You can probably get an idea of how it's easier to do the welding with the most stuff out of the way as possible. I removed the engine a few years ago, but didn't start the real rust removal and welding until September 2020, and I am just now getting the car on the road (hopefully this weekend). This is working on it a couple days a week and some of the weekend.
Rob
posted by 137.83.12...
, Tue, 20 Apr 2021 18:00:18, Wed, 21 Apr 2021 12:06:39
2
, Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:05:13
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