1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Glad you asked. If you've seen my other threads around here lately - I am basically "done" looking for used parts. they're old and crap at this point. So I am trying to source as many replacements for things as possible. I even dumped my starter switch and retrofitted a starter solenoid so that I have a nice push start setup without egregious amounts of current in the cabin. Jordan at MCS is also doing God's work here and creating improved parts for us that are common failure points. Instead of buying a good used dash, I plastic welded, sanded and refinished my own dash. That's where I am at personally. Future work from me on this is sourcing an alternative starter that may fit our flywheel setups, and finding a solution for bad distributors. Typically the hall sensors crap out or they leak, but the design is very similar to a widely available VW distributor cap. The ends are just different. MAF sensor is the same dealio. very similar to other systems for VW, volvo, etc. same with the APC transducer, I stumbled on some alternative parts and am using them now. at some point I'll find or build a new APC solenoid as well.
So I have been spending a LOT of time pouring over old manufacturer catalogues.
> Since the condensers on these cars were designed for r12 and are not parallel flow the system will likely never be as nice as a modern car.
I agree, though not totally. Whats important is to measure the temperature drop between the inlet and outlet port. If it's sufficiently good, I think you're fine. Sourcing a parallel flow condenser is not very difficult however, and there are many universal fit options, which leads to my next point
> I'd love to replace both my condenser and compressor with something brand new, a parallel flow condenser and a brand new compressor built for 134a. If anyone knows of new alternatives that work with our cars or modifications that can be done to use them that would be excellent
Prior to 88, or maybe 86 and before, there was another style compressor. In fact, a whole bunch of compressors use the same mount type as ours. The name I am not sure but it is the 8 mount points in a square.
So the prior to 86 or whatever compressors are still very available - these are used in other makes frequently, from Mazda, VW, Alfa and others. The reference part number I have is "4 Seasons 58033".
The issue is the the port design is not the same the post 88 compressors, ours is more of a 'two metal plates' design compared with just two hoses. This isn't a unique saab design, but physical layout of the older style ones would necessitate a 90 degree bend at least because of the space constraints above the compressor is quite tight.
This is all actually not a big deal, it just requires tools I don't have yet. There's a few good generic AC parts suppliers that sell all these adapters and hose lengths you need. I will bite the bullet at some point and get a barrier hose crimp die set. Once I have that I can fabricate the lines needed to run from the old style compressor to evap and drier.
If anyone has a source for those lines that match that compressor, I'd be interested in the details. I haven't one of those compressors on hand but - all the sizes are standardized.
This leads to really the crux of it - new hoses. A parallel flow universal condenser is easy to find, but you'd either need to mate it to the hard lines or fab your own set, of course not forgetting that you still need a dryer hookup. At this point you're basically doing a roll-your-own setup.
To that end picking easily available components is the best bet. A universal condenser is good, and finding a very common drier would be good too (ours are pretty easy to find, but there's even easier to find ones for ford, gm etc). All of these things need to be sized appropriately physically and by property (the condensor needs to be big enough, the compressor needs to push enough refrigerant, etc).
When I do this... I will write it up I promise. I need to get a barrier set regardless because our hoses will leak at some point anyway.
I took the car on the highway this morning it was 80 degrees out. And now it is certainly cold. I think there's twofold issue: not enough pressure at idle, and also not enough airflow at stand still, however, it's certainly getting cold. I don't believe either thermometer in this picture so we'll split the difference and call it 40-50 degrees?
Still having issues with the antifrost, I will test this afternoon.
posted by 98.114.12...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.