1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hmm, now I'm confused. If you're saying that the car boosted normal, then you backed off the gas pedal to the point of just above idle, the gauge should point to the middle since the turbo is not boosting much at this point. Am I stating that correctly?
I could be wrong, but I don't think a failing BOV (BPV) would make the car die. All that component does is direct unused boost back to the air intake box. If you say you have the newer style, that would be the one with Bosch # ending in 110, then it should be fine. That one is built to last a very long time and at higher pressures than what was stock. Do you have a spare working unit to swap in and test? If not, they're always on eBay and for quite cheap. Or even look in your local junkyard. No need to get the 110 type; any Bosch unit will do for performing tests.
This sounds more like a vacuum leak. Many times, these lines have pinhole-sized leaks in them and do not present themselves until under boost. So just looking at them in your garage sometimes is not enough. If you can't figure it out, I would suggest you replace all the vacumm hoses to be on the safe side. You can't go wrong in doing that, and actually probably should be done since these cars are already over 10 years old! Silicone is best, but rubber (oem) is fine as well...cheaper, too.
Other not-known things to check:
PCV small check valve (should only be able to blow air towards manifold; if you can suck air in, it's shot == vacuum leak).
Vacuum hose to purge cannister (runs from the manifold to the right-side fender and then to the cannister which hides behind the headlight accessible by removing the side marker. Sometimes the rubber connection breaks on top of the cannister, as well as this line could be leaking).
All rubber grommets that vacuum ports are plugged into (top of crankcase, top of fresh air intake hose). Cheap from site sponsor.
And again, I can't stress enough how important it is that you have fresh NGK plugs, and if under 12K, gapped correctly. The ECU uses these to do all of it's determinations of engine functionality, including idle. If it senses something it doesn't like, it tries to adjust to compensate, and that could cause the car to die when coming down to idle.
Joe
'98 140K
'93 900TC 162K
posted by 167.211.6...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.