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Saab Model 99 Bulletin Board
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Back in the saddle - "new" 1978 Turbo
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Posted by Aaron McD [Email] (more from Aaron McD) on Mon, 26 Jul 2004 14:54:34 Share Post by Email
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Hi all - I'm back on Saabnet, only this time in the 99BB. I had an '85 900T a few years back, as well as a '99 9-3SE HOT up until last September. I used to post every now and then about those cars and in the General BB, too. Sorry for this long post, in advance...

I've gone without a Saab and, for that matter, any car since last September so it is good to be back in a car and better yet, in a Saab.

I picked up an Anathracite Grey 1978 99 Turbo yesterday (thanks to a Saabnet Classifieds - http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/class/99.html, the Salt Lake City listing) and I am a very happy camper. I drove a non-turbo 99GL from 1992-94 and I love the cars.

I am not very familiar with the 8v motor. It looks pretty similar to my old 16v, but significant differences have me wondering...

With the Bosch CIS, can one use a K&N conical filter or is there a drop-in for the cannister type air cleaner?

How "tuneable" is this motor?

Being that the car has something like 108,000 miles (the odo doesn't work correctly - any ideas?), there are some issues to deal with and I don't know where to start. Any help will be much appreciated.

First, it leaks oil - not a surprise since EVERY Saab I've owned leaks (at least around the valve cover). I've got an inkling, based on my experiences with my 900T, that the main seal is bad. Ditto for the oil pan/sump gasket. Do I need to drop the motor to replace the main? I had a mechanic do the job on my 900T, but it was not cheap and I have more tools and less cash now.

The valve cover gasket is bad, too, but that is easy to fix. However, the valve cover bolts are phillips screws! Is this normal? They look a little stripped and I'd like to replace with something more robust.

The prior owner installed a few aftermarket gagues - one shows oil pressure, the other voltage. Oil is reading under 10psi at idle. Voltage is under/at 10V at idle. I have no idea what is normal for oil, but the voltage seems really low. What should I look at first, assumuing these guages are correct?

I've run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through the gas. What other tasks are there to do for making sure the injection system is up to par? Injectors look to be about $50 each, so I don't relish buying new ones...

The idle sometimes gets rough. I've yet to determine if there is a pattern - it happens sometimes at startup, sometimes while at a light. Revving it a little seems to help it smooth out pretty quickly.

The prior owner said something about replacing the wastegate diaphragm. I've not had a chance to look yet, but is this standard? Would an aftermarket wastegate be beneficial (if I need to replace the whole thing, for instance).

I think the synchros are going bad - shifting into reverse is touchy: sometimes it grinds and clunks, other times it slips right in. Any ideas? What does it take to fix these? Is this a "do-it-yourself" or a pay "someone to do it" fix?

At least one bushing is bad in the right control arm. Do I need a press to replace them, or can the suspension bushings be replaced by hand? I can get the parts easily enough, but just don't want to have to pay someone to install them if possible.

Speaking of parts, where is a good source for quality and affordable parts?

Rust is starting to win the battle on the trunk, the lower part of the driver's door and on the passenger side. I think a healthy amount of grinding and bondo might do the trick, but I almost feel like it may be a waste of time. Any hints as to how to slow the spread of the rot?

The car came with a Haynes manual, but it is for up to 1977 cars (non-turbo). What books can be of help?

I'm going to start searching the BB for these issues, but the more help I get the better!

Thanks,
Aaron McD


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