[Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Main General Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Thanks and what should I know about the finish Posted by Snowmobile [Email] (#686) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Snowmobile) on Thu, 24 Nov 2016 09:24:40 In Reply to: Thanks and what should I know about the finish, adl6009 [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 23 Nov 2016 06:35:38 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Water based polys are generally clearer and harder than oil based and do not yellow significantly. Some like the warmth of the oil based products (ie the "yellow" is kind of a feature). Water based poly is probably available with better UV blocking also.
The issue I have with brush on poly is the thickness buildup. More protective, but kind of looks plastic... A few coats are normally required to get the right uniformity, though one could start with a thinned coat. I'd budget for a couple coats of gloss before a final coat of satin with poly. One really nice thing about the brush on water based poly is it looks horrible (white) as you brush it on, so you self correct quickly, and when it dries, there are few flaws... Oil based otoh looks amazing as you brush and then as it dries (and it's too late!) things seem to look wrong... at least for me!
There are many finish possibilities, so I'd have to write a book... but generally, if you are ok with adding "warmth" (yellow/golden colour), my favourite finish (especially for real cherry) is a wipe on tung oil varnish. You wipe it with a rag so there are never any runs, and the coats are thin. You apply many coats but it dries quickly (oil based, high VOC, etc). The sheen (and level of protection, and "goldening") increases with the number of coats (you build up more varnish with more coats). The stuff penetrates the wood, so not just a layer on the surface that can scratch or peel. If it does get damaged, you just lightly sand/steel wool the damaged area, and then apply coats to that area and it blends well... but overall protection is not as high as with poly, and it is harder to get a high gloss, and it is not water clear...
There are many options from easy to quite labourous (eg french polish). You could google "finewoodworking finishing" if you want good articles on all this stuff... My bias would be brush on poly if protection and clarity is your priority, wipe on oil based (eg tung oil varnish) if warmth, repairability, and a thinner less plastic look is more your thing. May depend a little also on the finish of what you are matching...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.