[Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I have described my mods in the past and many have been widely adopted.
I am not saying that they are "so much better", but as long as you asked
on a 95SET
-MBC on T5, introduced, lots of flames when I first posted this, now its sort of mainstream, there are positives and negatives to using the MBC, but these are well described. A $35 MBC works nice, but that should be followed by a Sports exhaust and an metal BPV which does not make the end result very cheap. A good stepping stone for those who decide to go further and get a modified ECU.
-remove turbo compressor discharge silencer, credit has to go to Brad for this, widely adopted
-rework the throttle body transition casting, major design booboo there, many have now done this mod, it provides more power, but makes the engine smoother at the same time, which is a testiment to how much the turbulance with the stock TBTC was causing uneven fueling.
-K&N 33-2663 drop-in since May 1995, no big deal there, I warn folks all of the time that there are dangers if reinstalled swapped endwise. Need to explicitlty state the possible problems. You don't get that warning anyplace else that I have seen.
-introduced air box funnel mod, done by some, REM's 3" duct mod has better performance, many have done this mod, I will replace my funnel mod someday, it was a good 1st step as it was a reversable mod.
-Viggen IC, I was a late adopter
-VRK,Koni's,SAS rear bar, toe-in close to zero
-pop off valve & MBC pressurized from throttle body above the throttle plate, this is not easy to do, but could be made into a screw driver installed item, the pop-off valve is a 25mm blowoff valve with its small hose barb connected to a pressure regulator which makes it a pneumo-adjustable device which makes the whole thing much better than a pop-off valve with a stiffer spring. I will have to go through a winter with it to see if it will tame the MBC in cold weather. So its not a known solution yet. The MBC tapped up by the TB provides quite solid boost. The 'standard' pressure tap from the turbo compressor hose barb causes a large amount of boost 'taper' because of IC and piping pressure losses.
-metal piston type BPV, because the plastic ones sound silly after the MBC, demonstated that and have suggested this as a fix many times.
-sports exhaust, which I recommend as a prerequisite to a MBC, just good safe practice
-Delvac One, true synthetic 5W40 engine oil, engine runs quieter, smoother and seems to have improved my MPG's by 6%
-found that inexpensive insulation on the air box, some turbo pipes improved performance when its really hot, not currently installed since Viggen IC install, the Viggen IC seems to provide great hot weather performance.
-GreenStuff pads on the front work well for me.
-stock ECU & no cosmetic mods
-BCPR6EVX-11's initial gaps set to .035. These work well with the T5, but
I don't recommend them as the economics are bad, but that is a counter to the broad statements that some make about all NGK plantinums not working well.
-switched to synthetic oil in the G-box
- & perhaps things that I can't remember.
-future mods, air box duct mod, perhaps the map sensor resistor mod
I have posted numerous detailed sets of instructions on DIY maintenance work that folks can use as a guide to their own repairs and to decide if the work is something that they want to tackle. And I outline the critical go & no-go steps and describe preventative maintenace steps that I feel will prevent future problems.
I like your huge IC, that is quite a piece of work. That should negate some of the effects of having your filter under the hood. I have read about mods where the fitler has been put in the fender or such to get a cold air source. Is this something that you have done or are considering? The IC will restore the air charge density, but the hot air will probably be lowering the efficieny of the turbo, which will translate into higher turbine backressure required to get a certain level of boost and that translates to a loss of shaft HP via the pistons. Also, I expect that your IC works wonders on the street where there is lots of forward motion. But as always, IC's don't work as well as that on a dyno where there is little air flow. But with the hood up while on dyno, the intake air would be cooler. Your engine bay is much more open than the NG900 and 9-3 models, so perhaps the underhood temeratures are not as bad on the C900's as these newer models. So I expect that the effects of a filter under the hood could be less for the the C900s.
No flames, unless something gets too close to your red hot turbo.
I want to note that I also jumped on posts where the use of a BPVs vented directly to atmosphere were tried and promoted as a performance mod. I pointed out that at idle and throttle over-run, the valve as open and unfiltered air was entering the engine. Maybe someone should put that up on a web site c/w step by step 'how to do' pictures and state that it will cause engine contamination and wear. I can flame them and you can defend them. Or do you think that such a web site posting would be of merit?
posted by 208.24.179...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
