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You cannot get a socket on the 24mm drain plug. If a shallow socket, perhaps with a small breaker bar or ratchet handle. You may need a box wrench.
If you have any 15/16" weapons, they do work well! You might find a shallow 15/16th socket, but I had no luck finding a 24mm shallow socket.
My drain plug was very easy to loosen [never removed before 60K miles]. When you remove it oil will gush out sideways... right past my oil drain pan that got moved rather quickly.
After letting it drain to drips, I started the engine, turned off traction control, put in drive, put in reverse, repeat and shut down. Looked under the vehicle and there was major oil flow. Let that finish to the drip stage.
The fluid cooler hose carries fluid from the trany's engine side connection on the front of the trany, and it goes to the in-rad heat exchanger, upper connection on the far side of the rad. That is easily accessible. I put a 19mm ratchet-box wrench on it and tightened it slightly. It moved quite easily, this fitting did not seem to be properly tightened, but it was dry. Earlier, I brushed cleaned with shop air.
I backed off the upper rad heat exchanger banjo bolt just enough to break the air-lock and again got a strong flow of oil from the transmission.
Then cracked open the tyranny's discharge banjo bolt [after cleaning], closest to the engine and drained the line from the trany to the upper heat exchanger banjo bolt, more oil, running out of that lower banjo bolt connection.
Overall, this seems to be a good way to increase the amount of oil removed.
You can get well over 4 quarts drained off this way.
I did 3 drain and fills. One the second go, I let the engine run longer and then let the trany's drain until drips only. I then put a different contain under the drain and then loosened the banjo bolt at the top of the rad. Nothing more drained out. Then loosened the outbound connection at the trany and nothing came out. So the run engine only method is very effective.
After a drain, I added 4 quarts of fluid, not up to needed level. I then drove around with that to mix things up and to warm the fluid for the next drain. With these secondary drains, one should expect to only drain off 4 quarts.
When a new transmission is installed, it is dry and must be filled. When the engine starts, the trany gets a dry[er] start. With the method above, the trany is fluid/oil wetted at all times. I can't see that there is a risk in this method. Others can correct me if not.
When you drain fluid, air is introduced into the trany. The first shifts will feel lumpy as the air gets worked out of the system. Some drive - reverse cycles might aid that process. After the first drain and fill, this shifting problem with air in the trany was much less obvious... action of new fluid.
Tips, clean the trany dip stick tube before removing it, then with a clean rag, clean it again and the around the rim etc. Clean dirt off of the dip stick handle area. This also keeps you from contaminating your fingers with grit.
Clean the drain plug carefully, again something that will contaminate your hands.
Do not water wash the above items, the wire cable dip stick might trap water. The drain plug has a a magnet surrounded by a aluminum sleeve that has gaps, again water might be trapped there. It takes a while to remove the iron wear particles from the magnet.
In your tool cabinet or such place a screwdriver or equivalent hanging over the edge of a drawer. Use that to hang the dip stick so that it does not pick up dirt from contacting something.
Find something to act like a funnel to fill through the dip stick. Even when filling slowly, the fluid can backup and run down the tube to the trany then run down it and drip. You cannot rush this. Keep this funnel clean as you are going to be using it 3 times for drain and fills as well as some final fluid level adjustments when the trany fluid is hot.
I tried to find Castrol Import multi vehicle, which does meet the required standards. Hard to find and where I did find it, there was less than 12 quarts. Went to Toyota and picked up 2 cases of 12, and got a 10% discount, which made it cheaper than the Castrol product. Toyota Type IV ATF. That is made by Mobil and packaged for Toyota. It is the same as Mobil 3309 ATF.
At 66K miles, when I drained the fluid, watching the oil stream, it was clear but dark ruby red color. It smelled good, not burn and it felt good. Not like old ATF that saw in the 70's and 80's. However the shifts, like N-->D or R-->D were rough and sometimes other shifts. With limited driving, this seems not be a problem now. Porting the waste fluid in larger streams, it looked like a darker port wine, almost purple. The new fluid is a light bright cherry color.
Have three 1 gallon containers handy for the waste.
posted by 75.18.10...
, Thu, 15 May 2008 16:45:55
, Thu, 15 May 2008 16:43:12
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