1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
John - -
Some ideas on removing nuts on bolts that are prone to shearing:
A little oil helps immensely. Once nut has moved, even a tad, oil behind it and run it back to starting point, then looser, oil again, back again, etc.
Also, wire brushing (power) the exposed threads first as someone said is a great idea. The hard part of the threads isn't the ones inside the nut, it's the ones coated in hard rust scale that the nut will have to travel over on its way off. Then also oil those threads, before running not onto them.
If a nut you are removing seems to get tighter and kind of lock up, back off and run it back on again, as above. The point of locking up is where the force starts to work to wring the neck of the bolt, instead of removing the nut.
Keeping your twisting completely radial, or rather tangent to the radial, is also important. If your wrench is cocked, so that part of the pull is twisting up or down, prying against the bolt, shearing a bolt is more likely.
The dremel tool with cutoff wheel, or a nut splitter as Vern suggests, are real helpful. Even if you don't manage to split a nut all the way through it loosens up its grip on the bolt.
Important, clean up the threads before you run the new nut back on, so the next time isn't the same scenario all over again.
You have good basic mechanic instincts, trying a dry run on a junkyard car to see what can go wrong. Maybe your own car will go easier.
posted by 71.173.9...
, Mon, 13 Aug 2012 19:29:00, Mon, 13 Aug 2012 19:29:53, Mon, 13 Aug 2012 19:50:03
, Mon, 13 Aug 2012 20:56:02, Mon, 13 Aug 2012 22:15:44
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