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this makes sense then!
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Posted by Siegfried (more from Siegfried) on Wed, 20 May 2015 10:08:00 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Click the button to move to the next DTC, Julianm, Wed, 20 May 2015 08:57:13
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Julian,
here's what happened:



Your ABS ECU is on the left, you're in the middle and I'm appear to be on the right. Ray advised to replace the left crow with a spare one and see what happens while I prefer to 1st probe the old one to measure its electrical resistance, capacitance and inductance (it's also worth to taste it whether it's salty or chilly) + check the power rail voltage drop and when with all the instruments I measure the old crow to be dead then I'll advise to replace it with a brand new one paying attention to properly place its landing gear the way it doesn't shorten the power line.

As for removing the ABS ECU off the car, I don't recall any special abra-kadabras that have to be casted. Just twist it here and there and sooner or later you'll be fine!


Zig

P.S.
I wouldn't use ABS ECU from the early production (MY '89-90) on later cars w/o mods since they're coded to be used on later cars because earlier years went with 94-teeth sensor-wheels and later ones expect to see 46 teeth per wheel revolution.

Btw, I think your ECU can be repaired (relatively) easily, it's just a matter of MOSFET chip - which you fried - to be replaced. Or a PCB trace to be jampered/bridged. But I recall the ABS ECU PCB to be heavily lacquered and it may turn out to be a PITA to get it removed w/o PCB damage, especially if you're the 1st time into this.

posted by 5.18.17...
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