1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Thanks for the advice. I'd like to think that would work, but I don't even think the back calipers want to be pushed back in, even with a really long crowbar. With all the heating up and cooling off of the calipers, I would think the hot/cool/hot/cool would free them up too. (sort of when you heat up something with a torch to undo a rusty nut or bolt)
I do have a puzzling problem now.. the brakes feel a bit uneven.. Often I drive a few miles on the highway and then coast to a stop in a rest area. I feel the Ronal wheels and sometimes one of them is hot, sometimes three of them are hot. Sometimes, they're pretty cool. It's clear that some are dragging some of the time.
When you brake it pulls to the right, which doesn't make much sense becuase the front right brake is the one that is most often not overheating/draggin.. What the heck? I'd figure that it would pull towards the one that is sticking, but that doesn't seem to be the case. And the rear right rotor is still rusty, which would indicate that at least the out-side pad isn't doing anything. Hmmm.
When I replaced the front left with a m85 no fluid came out of the pipe! I was expecting a steady flow of fluid to drip out, but nothing came. The caliper did seem to bleed ok though. the m85 caliper was known to be okay, but for some reason that one is heating up sometimes.
What is consistent is that I have gotten into the habit of putting my toes under the pedal to make sure it comes back all the way, because it does (or used to) stick a little. I'm guessing that maybe I really need to rebuild the master cylinder. There's a general roughness to the pedal, and I have a strong feeling that once I get the thing apart, there will be all sorts of nasty rusty brake fluid in there. From there I guess I will flush the system and get all the bad fluid out. The theory I have is that the heating up is more of a symptom ot air or rusty bad fluid (or blockage) in the lines/MC.
As regards to the brake balance, it would seem that the m85/m76 Girling front ones would be overworked since they are proportionally bigger than the rear (original m72 Ates). Would larger rears (that match the year or the fronts) fix that? or is the m72 master cylinder only going to be balanced with the m72 calipers? I'd guess that a m76 car isn't really any differently proportioned than a m72 car, so having all four brakes being consistent would seem to improve things.. Or maybe not?
Granted, I am not looking for perfection here.. If I was, I would just source an original m72 transmission and revert back to the original axles and calipers, but even in 1995 it was hard to find parts for the older suspension set-up.
I'm just aiming for imporved stopping, and if things heat up a little, that's fine. Just as long as they are not as bad as before. The first Girling caliper I had on the front would get so hot that it would glow, and was visible at night. That can't be good.
posted by 65.96.19...
, Wed, 13 Apr 2005 05:29:03, Fri, 15 Apr 2005 06:31:28
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
