1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest]
Oil leak from throttle body? There is no oil circuit, but coolant one...
If TB works properly - no limp mode, no codes, steady idle, then there is absolutely no need to replace it.
If you have oil inside TB, then your turbo is injecting it into the intake (rebuild/new needed).
TB has two seals: one on the top, and one at the bottom, both can be easily replaced by yourself - it's hard to imagine an easier job on the car. During this job check all vacuum, PCV and EVAP circuits for leaks and proper configuration (some pipes could be wrongly connected). Also one-way valves in this areas often fail and have to be checked under working pressure - at least 1 bar.
As for engine oil leaks - let's go through typical places:
__The best way to locate oil leaks is to wash the engine and observe__
- oil pressure sensor (located between intake manifold and starter)
- timing chain tensioner (back of the cylinder head)
- vacuum pump/seal (auto/manual gearbox)
- oil trap O-ring where it goes into the block (MY2002+)
- valve cover gasket
- oil pump seals (big cover O-ring, and shaft seal)
- oil drain plug
- *oil pan itself (usually after taking it off)
- *timing cover after timing replacement (it's hard to seal, but possible)
*Anaerobic sealant story
All places sealed with anaerobic sealant (Loctite 518 in SAAB case), like timing cover, oil pan, or oil filter housing need to be very carefully chemically cleaned before assembly (no abrasives!). Why not to clean it mechanically using a sand paper or similar? Anaerobic sealants are particularly effective in sealing very small gaps (best ~0,05mm, max. up to 0,2mm). After mechanical cleaning quality of the surface is seriously affected. Loctite has a special chemical agent - Loctite 7200 Gasket Remover - it's designed to remove all anaerobic glues (sealants, thread lockers, etc.).
Also very important is to let the sealant harden after assembly - the bigger gap - the more time needed.
Loctite 518 datasheet
Not knowing that most of the mechanics have serious issues to seal those areas after repair. Not only DIYers/indys but also official service centers (lack of trainings).
If the surface is heavily damaged (over 0,2mm) there are two ways:
- grind it down in mechanical shop to achieve flat surface on the whole part
- use a silicone based sealant
Generally - let's face it - ALL seals in a teenage car are old and should be replaced. Especially in the engine. The best way is to replace then when it still runs - waiting brings failures.
As always, I wanted to write a short post. I failed again ;)
posted by 80.50.141...
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