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Here ya go...(a bit long)
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Posted by bill h. (more from bill h.) on Tue, 2 Dec 2014 06:36:52 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 03 Aero - 141K miles, Blake, Tue, 2 Dec 2014 04:45:27
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If yours are original at that mileage, you likely need to do this. I drive on pretty good roads in GA and mine were shot at around 100k on my 04 Aero. I listened to the banging for another year and finally got off my arse to replace them at 117k after my tire guy showed me the top ball joint has popped out on drivers side. Most people here seem to prefer Moog or Meyle units vs. Febi, Proparts, or genuine Saab units. These instructions are for install of the Moog links.

First thing to consider...if your car has seen much road salt these things may have be sawed off. In which case you would not need the Park bike wrench. (The bike wrench is only needed for the OEM removal. If you replace with OEM style end links you will need it for those too. For the Moog links I bought from Amazon, I had enough clearance for a standard 18 mm wrench.) For badly rusted threads a sawzall would be the best tool for this. Try the penetrating oil first, let sit for at least a couple of hours.

Tools

PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil
Hydraulic floor jack
Wheel chocks, or substitutes
2 Jack stands
1/2" drive flex head ratchet
1/2" drive extensions
17 and 18mm deep well sockets
SCW-17 Park Bicycle Cone Wrench or similar bike cone wrench
18mm open end wrench
Torque wrench (optional)
Sawzall (if needed)
For Moog only - grease gun with Zerk fitting on end

1. Chock rear wheels and set emergency brake
2. Break loose lug bolts on both front wheels
3. Jack up car with Hydraulic jack at front center jack position (see reference to location in your owners manual)
4. Raise until wheels are about 3/4"-1" off ground
5. Install jack stands at the jack points at the front rocker panels, you may want to pad them with a rag
6. remove front wheels
7. Apply penetrating oil to threads at upper and lower ends of end link
8. Let sit for a couple of hours
9. Break free both nuts, remove lower nut first using 17mm bike wrench to secure the stud while removing nut on the opposite side with your 1/2" drive ratchet and deep well socket. (this is the moment of truth on whether you will need to saw them off).
10. If you have Moog links with Zerk fittings inject a little grease until the rubber bellows move a bit. Do not use too much grease, just a pump or two,
11. Install new links with new nuts, torque wrench wont fit at bottom, get as tight as you can
12. Reinstall wheels, remove jackstands and lower car, torque wheel lugs to 81 ft. lbs. DO NOT FORGET TO DO TIGHTEN THE WHEEL LUGS.
13. Enjoy the bang and clunk free new ride.



posted by 24.42.180...


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