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Time to disassemble Posted by Cmyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Cmyles) on Fri, 12 Nov 2010 20:48:29 In Reply to: Re: upper chainwheel bearing, S Carlson, Fri, 12 Nov 2010 17:44:47 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
S Carlson,
At this point I think we've done all that can be done short of disassembly. Either the upper chainwheel bearing is shot, the input shaft nut is loose or the chains are rubbing on something and the only way to determine which it is and correct it is to take stuff apart. If you've only put 300 miles on it since torquing the input shaft nut to 75 ft/lbs then it's probably still tight but if it is loose then the resulting axial and radial play in the input shaft would cause the front counter gears to mesh poorly and allow the rear end of the input shaft to rub on the fifth gear hub either of which can cause a lot of noise and will soon lead to broken parts. You don't want to ignore a bad upper chainwheel bearing, as you surmised it will seize and grind down the arbor that it sits on and then you're screwed. I can change that bearing for you if you send me the chainwheel. I would get the front cover off and look real closely for any evidence of the chains rubbing on something. The metal oil collection cup is easily bent so inspect it closely. Also be sure that the plastic "propeller" is screwed into the front end of the clutch shaft. If you undo the input shaft nut use red (high strength) Loctite on the threads when you put it back on and if you are re-using the old nut be sure to grind the areas that have been staked so that the flange is perfectly flat and smooth on the back side. Any bumps there will throw off your torque reading and prevent proper tightening.
posted by 198.233....
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