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Rear Shock removal - new questions...
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Posted by BobN [Email] (more from BobN) on Tue, 27 May 2014 18:03:03 Share Post by Email
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I searched and read several threads about removing the rear shock lower mounting bolts, but was confused when comparing what I read to what I see on the car. My '92 900S has the original rear shocks, and they are rusted solid on the bottom. Oddly, the upper nuts seem to turn ok.

I soaked the bolt and nut on both sides with PB Blaster, and it's soaking overnight now. I have a good air impact wrench, and it did nothing to move the bolt in fifteen minutes of solid slamming. I can put some heat on it in the morning, but it seems that my first problem is trying to turn the bolt from the head end instead of breaking the nut loose first.

That's my first point of confusion: There is no space to fit a power tool on the inboard side where the nut is. I know there is a lot of extra resistance trying to turn the entire bolt. Some posts said to use a long breaker bar, and even lower the car on the screw jack for power. But I could barely get a box-end wrench into the metal box where the nut is, and don't see any way of putting a socket and breaker bar in there. What am I missing?

Then I wondered if I cut the shock stem off just where the lower top bushing is, could I rotate the shock around to break the bond and reduce some of the stick between the bolt and the lower mount bushing. What do you all think?

What else can I do?

Thanks.

posted by 68.57.71...


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