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Engine still starts and then stops.
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Posted by bikerdad [Email] (#1407) [Profile/Gallery] (more from bikerdad) on Sun, 17 Nov 2013 10:48:13 Share Post by Email
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As I stated in an earlier post my problem is my daughter's 1990 900 turbo automatic fires a couple of times and then stops. The link below is to a video that will clearly show the problem. The light in the video is a noid (LED light) attached to one of the ejector wires. All the injectors act the same.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=179905742215505&l=1731591649027328342

As you can see the noid lights up when it starts cranking, is very bright while the engine fires and then stops when the engine stops firing. The light is still lighting up a little, very little, but can't be seen in the video. I have been working on this off and on for a month and it always acts like this. The battery is fully charged. I replaced the spark plugs because one had a yellow spark instead of a bright blue. I also replaced the wires, cap and rotor and they all spark bright blue whenever the engine is turning over. I have done the checks on the distributor, Ignition amplifier/control unit, and the coil and they are good according to the Bentley manual so I believe the ignition system is good. I put a fuel gauge on the engine and it reads 36 PSI with the engine off which is good according to the manual. I put a brake vacuum pump on the fuel regulator and the pressure varied with the vacuum like it should. I pinched off the return line and pressure rose to over 70 and I stopped the pump so I wouldn't pop a hose. The volume from the pump was around 27 fluid ounces in 30 seconds which is a little low but should still start and idle. I also checked to make sure the pump stays running while the engine is cranking even after it stops firing; there is about 11 volts going to the pump. I also tried starting the engine with the fuel pump jumped so it was running all the time and the engine still acted the same.
I pulled the codes from the engine before I changed the ECU and they were 12231- no rpm which is expected, 12223+12241 - air-fuel mixture fault/too lean, and 12111+12112 oxygen sensor circuit problem. According to the manual the oxygen sensor doesn't affect a cold start problem and I have checked for loose or bad intake and vacuum hoses which again should not prevent it from starting and running. I also did the Fuel Injection Component Test and everything seemed to check out. I could hear the fuel pump run, all the injectors click, the AIC buzzed, and the ELCD clicked. I checked the throttle position switch and it functions correctly according to the manual. I am not sure of the automatic trans drive position switch but that shouldn't count until you take it out of park. I also checked the temperature sensor and the resistance coincided with the current outside temperature fairly well. I happened to try starting the car with the temperature sensor off and it seemed to fire now and then when I continued to crank the engine but after I hooked it up again it acted the same way as in the video. The temperature sensor should not prevent the engine from starting and idling though.
If anyone has experienced such a problem or has some ideas of what to check next I would appreciate it very much.


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