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cro-moly
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Posted by nt moore (more from nt moore) on Mon, 2 May 2005 06:44:15 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: OT: road bikes, jeff, Mon, 2 May 2005 04:21:38
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I worked in a bike shop back in the mid 90's. While there I bought a double-butted cro-moly (steel alloy) frame road bike with low-end campy gear. I still use that bike for commuting. No rust in sight.

The Campy drivetrain maye look nice, but in my experience low-end shimano (RSX or 105) is more durable and easier to align/maintain than low end Italian gear.

Try to avoid any drive train components which seem gimmicky.

The ride of a frame goes much deeper than the material used to build it - tube diameter and proportion plays a huge role (think about a steel tube of the diameter of cannondale's main Al down-tube. It would be impossible to bend ie very painful ride.

When shopping you might do well to go to a local bike shop that caters/sponsors a road bike club. They will probably know more than you average schwinn/trek/REI employee about how the frame should fit.

One other thing rarely mentioned. Look around for a frame that will accept larger diameter tires (at least 700x38 or so). Larger tires are marginally heaver and marginally slower than the 700x23 tires that come standard on road bikes, but they soak up bumps signifigantly better than the narrower version. This may lead you into looking for a cyclocross bike, a road/trail hybrid, with MTN bike drive train, cantilever brakes, drop handlebars, which is capable of being ridden on fire roads or single track and is signifigantly faster than your average mtn bike.

Actually, I'd say that a steel-frame cyclocross bike (with road tires) would be your best bet for long touring. The link below is a wonderful resource.

NT


posted by 128.101.220...

http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/

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