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The report... Posted by Frak [Email]  (#1515) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Frak) on Thu, 23 Jul 2015 06:44:29
In Reply to: Clutch and brake systems entirely separate., RayF, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 17:53:11 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
AFT clutch hose replaced and system bled using 10 ml syringe from a medical kit. Clutch pressure restored like new. Transmission shifts beautiful. ABS light/brake symptoms were intermittent but so far so good.
The formed clutch hose was a bear to install by-myself. It fought me from every direction as it needs to be exactly in spot to line up to the master/slave ends.The flexible section is a different material then OE and it wants to stay in the position it had settle in so it kept snapping back as I stretched towards either master/slave. As a result I couldn't comfortable thread either end of the clutch hose by hand regardless which end I started which is paramount to avoid the cross-thread catastrophe.
I'm on the road and and I only have my roadside tool kit with me so options were limited. In the end I removed the master cylinder and with-out disconnecting the reservoir line I brought it as far forward as I could and lifted the coolant reservoir out of the way to get a straight shot at hand threading the new line. After partially inserting the master back in the fire wall I was able to hand thread the slave. I used teflon tape on both ends. No leaks. Getting the master all the way back in spot and lined up to re-insert the bolts required a crowbar to hold the master in place and a scribe to line up the threads/holes. Doing this alone meant I was going from top of engine bay to upside down under dash repeatedly.
Lessons learned:
1.Remove hood 2. Remove air-mass meter/AFT air-filter 3. Remove turbo inter-cooler piping from above slave cylinder 4. Remove bleed valve with 13mm socket 5. Snap the old line off at the slave with pliers and use 13mm socket to remove. 6. BUY SHORT RATCHETING OPEN END/SIDE 13MM WRENCH FOR THE MASTER END!!! 7. Disconnect master to allow play for connecting new clutch hose by hand. You may not need to remove it like I did but... 8. Disconnect coolant reservoir and lift it out of the way (if your pulling master all the way out like I did). Otherwise your clutch hose will end up threaded beautifully to the master but it will be on top of the coolant hose and not under neath it.... :-( 9. Reverse bleed with syringe. I used a 10 ml syringe from a climbers medical kit. It took multiple refills but I kept the clear line primed and attached to the bleeder.
Last thought.... a 13mm open end wrench straight from drivers side of engine bay and a stubby screw driver in the box end is all you need on the slave end of the line to tighten it.
, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 03:53:51
, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 07:41:51, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 08:30:24
, Tue, 21 Jul 2015 08:07:20
, Tue, 21 Jul 2015 08:13:46, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 07:12:58, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 21:04:35, Tue, 21 Jul 2015 09:40:15, Tue, 21 Jul 2015 19:06:25
, Wed, 22 Jul 2015 09:53:02, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 13:08:39, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 06:44:29 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 09:30:09, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 10:33:44, Mon, 20 Jul 2015 20:13:30, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 06:57:07, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 09:21:31, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 10:29:32, Thu, 23 Jul 2015 11:31:18, Mon, 27 Jul 2015 23:24:55
, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 12:58:03, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 05:16:17, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 11:28:48, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 12:57:02, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 11:42:48, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 15:33:16, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 18:08:27, Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:10:14, Wed, 29 Jul 2015 08:42:18
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