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Re: **** just got real... Posted by Larry West [Email] (#1140) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Larry West) on Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:15:18
In Reply to: **** just got real..., Justin VanAbrahams [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 15 Oct 2013 20:56:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
I'm no plumber, but believe me, all of that stuff is "standard". I would be a lot more surprised if you could NOT find compatible bits to plumb in a new valve.
Of course, there are several "standards", and you'll have to match things up, but Delta has been at this for decades. They probably use the same valve that's in that one in a current model, updated for current tastes.
As for the small cutout in the shower wall, that's pretty standard. Plumbing all needs to be inspected before the walls get finished, so when putting it all together, you cut out the least you need to. It also helps keep water IN the shower stall...
Look on the bright side, that valve lasted 51 years! Had it been replaced, surely they would have cut a larger hole in the wall for access. The large escutcheon (chrome plate) can cover a multitude of sins...
What you may be able to do yourself, is to enlarge the hole (scribe a circle where the escutcheon goes so you don't cut too far. Stay as close to the original as possible.) and remove the valve cartridge, and replace it yourself. Not much different than doing a water pump on a Saab, you're just missing all the nice bolts, and there's no sealant to scrape off... Of course, be sure to shut off the water first...
Google "how to replace a delta shower valve cartridge". Plenty of resources out there.
You'll probably unscrew the shiny cap (the shiny stuff almost never holds the working bits together), and undo one other largish nut. After that, it's just pulling the cartridge, usually. You may need to borrow a puller to get it out without scoring the bore (just like a "B" motor water pump!).
If you can, first find any markings on the valve, escutcheon, etc. to see if you can find a model #. That makes it really easy to get the replacement valve from your local hardware store, big home store, or plumbing supply. Otherwise, you should be able to match it up after removal at any one of those.
Two things to note: 1) which way the valve turns for hot & cold. This may be standard on all, but... and 2) which side of the valve is hot and which is cold. This is often marked on the valve housing, so once you've enlarged the hole, you'll be able to see the markings. If you get either wrong, hot will be cold and v-v...
Hopefully, it is the 51 year-old valve, and not the pipes. Copper pipes are relatively new, and they run pretty clean, and don't get build-up inside. Older, iron pipes can get nasty inside (I've been watching too much Rehab Addict on DIY Network...)
->Posting last edited on Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:20:25.
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