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Re: Brake Fade
Posted by Fiatvhs2 (more from Fiatvhs2) on Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:34:05
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

Racing stock, SCCA improved touring and vintage with stock type brakes we 
have learned some things about brake fade I can share.
Brake pads are the number one factor. Newer carbon fiber or kevlar pads work 
better and actually transmit less heat into the rotor. Be careful not to buy 
'race' compounds as they require warm up to work and are dangerous when cold. 
Metal master type pads can quickly over heat stock rotors and often cause a 
lot rotor wear. Brands like Performance Friction and Hawk are good. Rotors 
last well with these.  
Brake fluid is also important, stock calipers do not recirculate the fluid in 
the caliper so bleeding them refreshens the fluid in the caliper. Dot 4 fluid 
like ATE Super Blue have very high 'dry' ratings (536f dry, 392 wet) works 
well if kept dry(bleed frequently). Cost $8.00 liter) Racing brake fluids 
cost more and often are repackaged stock fluids. The best by far is Castrol 
SRF brake fluid which rates around 590f dry and 518f wet, but costs $77.99 
per liter. Silicone brake fluids only work if the whole system is cleaned out 
and new seals are installed. Silicones also cause soft pedals. 
Wheels are also very important as more open wheels keep the brakes much 
cooler than close wheels. Lighter wheels also have less rotational weight and 
help. 
Drilled and slotted rotors have been tested by many and have a minor benefit. 
The biggest benefit is their lighter weight and they look cool. Larger rotors 
definitely help, along with multi piston race calipers, but this is very 
costly.
If your current vented rotors are rusty inside the vents replacing them will 
make a difference. The last tip is cleaning the whole brake system so the 
road grim is not affecting the system.  
Mike Tucker
99 9-3
Fiat 124 Coupe race car
83 BMW R100RT
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