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Re: Water Pump R&R
Posted by Ywan Mason (more from Ywan Mason) on Fri, 12 May 2000 11:41:45
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00

The 2.3 L engine differs a good bit in the water pump R&R procedure from
the 2.0L engines.

To remove just the supplied part of the pump, you overlook a common
point that should be addressed with the replacement, namely the o rings
on the tube connecting it to the engine block. They commonly leak when
they get old and hard. They come with quality pumps. Getting the pump
off the housing is much easier with the whole thing off as well. You can
do a much easier and thorough job of removing the old gasket.

The procedure requires the removal, but not the evacuation, of the a/c
compressor. Remove the serpentine belt, (see the link below) the special
tool to hold the tensioner is nice to use, but not required. It saves
you from having to fight that spring one less time. The compressor will
come off relatively easy with the removal of three bolts holding it to a
bracket after the belt is off. Just move it with its lines attached
carefully so as not to stress the lines out of the way. Then remove the
bracket with three more bolts.

Three more bolts removes the entire water pump and its housing, getting
it up where you can manage it better. Replace the o ring on the pipe
coming around the front of the motor. Remove the tube from the block to
the water pump housing, noting its orientation as it comes out of the
block. It has a 'baffle' to aim the flow from the pump. Clean the
corrosion from the hole in the block ( formerly a freeze plug on earlier
engines) . Replace the pump on the housing. I remove the water pump
pulley with the unit, but leave the pulley off until I get the unit back
on the car when the pump is replaced.

On reassembly, use a thread locker on the bolts for the a/c bracket and
the compressor, they tend to loosen otherwise. Blue LocTite works well
and will come off again should the need arise.

While the pump is being done, consider the thermostat, a cooler fan
switch ( if pre 95) , the upper radiator hose and hose off the back of
the head that carries the hottest engine coolant, the serpentine belt.
If you replace the belt, note the condition of the idler pulleys (
plastic) and also note that the one on the tensioner must be removed to
change the belt. it is held with a Left handed thread bolt. Inspect the
belt tensioner. They have problems in two areas, one the bracket that
attaches to the head commonly cracks or comes loose, make sure the bolts
are tight, or even better, remove them and apply the LocTite and
retorque. Make sure the tensioner is not coming apart where the pivot is
pressed into the aluminum housing that bolts to the block. This is an
expensive unit. We have successfully repaired a few by tapping the pivot
back to where it should be and drilling through the housing and pivot
and inserting a 1/8' poll pin. Later tensioner designs, and the update
at http://216.78.173.139/engine_folder/engine_images/23tensioner.pdf

have a c clip in the back of the pivot to prevent it from walking out of
the housing. There is also an updated spacer made of steel instead of
aluminum for the top of the tensioner spring. You should also flush the
cooling system with this repair to get rid of the old coolant, and
remove any debris the repair liberates.

And we've recently found a German manufacturer of 9000 water pumps that
are of equal quality to the OE pumps at a good savings. They have the
same machining quality and seal and bearing quality, and a cast
impeller. 2.3 L pumps are $69.93. ( OE list is $135) Same company
makes water pumps to fit all 900s and 9000s at comparable quality and
pricing. We have also noted that the previous poor quality GMB pumps
have greatly improved. They no longer use a stamped impeller, at least
not the ones we recently ordered just to have a look see after a
supplier told us that they had improved their quality. They aren't
available though that we have found for the 2.3L. Just to compare, for a
C900 8 or 16V the GMBs are $17.77, the German Hepo or Lasso are $38.39.
( OE list $82) For a 2.0L 9000, the German made pumps are $40.53 ( OE
list $135) On older cars in the shop, we offer any of these as an
alternative to the first choice OE pumps.


Posts in this Thread:

StateOfNine.com
SaabClub.com
Jak Stoll Performance
M Car Covers
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