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Bosch Electrical Connectors
Posted by Loren Amelang (more from Loren Amelang) on Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:08:51
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

This is probably not going to interest many people, but if you should ever
happen to need to know how to release the pins from those wire-bail
connectors that go to the injectors and sensors in the classic 900, it is
possible. 

The boot on my NTC connector had split years ago, and the temporary fixes
just didn't keep the contacts dry enough. When the idle started creeping up
again this week, I determined to fix it once and for all. There was a good
boot just hanging there on an unused connector. If I could release the
connector pins, it would be simple to swap them. 

Turns out there are at least two versions of the connector shell. One has a
'T' shaped slot for each pin, the other has '+' shaped slots. They use the
same pins, which have spring-out locking tabs on both sides of the visible
female contacts. The locking tabs are part of a separate spring device
which wraps around three sides of the actual electrical contact fingers and
provides extra spring tension holding them together against the male pins. 

In the 'T' shaped slots, the locking tab on the flat side opposite the base
of the 'T' does not mate with any feature in the housing. Only one release
pin is required. Inserting a stiff wire from the mating side of the housing
down into the base of the 'T' alongside the contact will push the locking
tab away from the catch and allow the contact to be pulled back out of the
housing. The trick is to use the proper size wire - 0.036' or 0.90mm is a
bit too small, it doesn't quite get the locking tab up over the catch;
0.048' or 1.22mm is about right, and 0.062' or 1.58mm is too big to fit
into some of the release openings. 

In the '+' shaped slots, there is room to insert a release pin both above
and below the contact, and it appears both are required simultaneously. (By
then it was almost dark and I didn't examine the interior of the housing so
carefully.) 

A hint - don't pull the contacts back against the locking tabs while you
insert the release pins. It is easy to bend the end of the locking tab
straight outward instead of displacing it inward! Push the pins toward the
mating end of the housing (push the wire into the back of the housing) so
there is room for the locking tabs to swing in while you insert the release
pin. Then pull the contact out. 

There are no other tricks, no second catches for the tabs, the tabs are
just flat and parallel with the contact surfaces and about half the width
of the contacts, and right under the base of the 'T' or top and bottom of
the '+' openings. If your contact appears to have released part-way and
then caught again, you have probably bent the locking tab back on itself
(luckily that was the donor connector which wasn't used anyway!)

Hope this helps someone else someday...  

Loren
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