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Re: Oil Pan Crack
Posted by Joe Dille - http://saabnet.com/tsn/forms/e.php3?em (more from Joe Dille - http://saabnet.com/tsn/forms/e.php3?em) on Thu, 24 Jun 2004 15:16:37
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

> I was recently 'surprised' with a crack in the oil pan of my 1988 Saab 900

For the crack in the pan I would try JB Weld.  It has done wonders for me and 
others.  Be sure to clean area and follow the directions.  I have used duct 
tape to provide a temporary for for the JB Weld.

The valve you want is at:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Good luck with the repair.

Drive Safe,

Joe
==================
Message from rhusak - http://saabnet.com/tsn/forms/e.php3?em=271

Rick.
Too Bad! I had a similar case except min was hit at the drain plug and
started leaking there.. I tried most all of it.. Ended up replacing the pan..
You DO NOT have to remove the engine.. It is really pretty straight forward..
Just a lot of R&R stuff.. Mine is a 99 9/3 but can't imaging it's that much
different.
Ron Husak
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Message from HHirsch999 - http://saabnet.com/tsn/forms/e.php3?em=15

I would replace it fast; it will only get worse.  The oil pan is subject to
huge changes in tempature, vibration, and the important role of insure that
your engine should never have to run without oil.  You may be able to acquire
a replacement from a salvage yard specializing in Saab's such as Engilsh
Swedish Cars (<http://www.english-swedish.com>TARGET='_blank' HREF='http://www.english-swedish.com'>http://www.english-swedish.com

or 1-800-241-1916) or Sports Car Service at 302-762-7222.

Pursuing your mechanic for causing this damage is a second and separate
matter.  Under no circumstances would I have your mechanic do the repair;
that;s just asking for problems much more complicated than what you have
right now.
 
Herb Hirsch
==================
Message from Leo.Ranta - http://saabnet.com/tsn/forms/e.php3?em=56

I had the same problem with my old 1981 Saab 900 when I bought it. The
previous owner had done exactly the same thing with  overtightening the
drain plug. He had tried to use metalized epoxy to stop the leak, it did not
work that good but atleast I could drive the car a couple of months before I
decided to do an oil change. The final solution was to find a aluminum
welder in the area where I lived. Drove the car and drained the oil, cut
away a small part of the tranny housing including the plug and welded a new
piece of aluminum with a new drain plug. Best solution, takes some time, but
it can be done pretty cheap(~$50-$75) if you're lucky.  

 /Leo
==================
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