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Re: Intermittent No Start
Posted by David Prantl (more from David Prantl) on Wed, 24 Jul 2002 18:52:17
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

>  When it will not start I hear a click under the dash of  the passenger 
>side, but nothing else.

>  With the key in the on position the voltage displayed  on the dash shows 
>10.3-11.8vts.

Ron,

That voltage readout definitely sounds too low.  When you first turn on the 
key, the ABS fluid pump will run to pressurize the brake system.  This takes 
quite a bit of electrical power, which could depress your voltage reading.  
If your headlight switch is on, this will also draw some current and lower 
the reading.  Your climate control system will also kick in and if it's a 
very hot day (or if the temp is set to 'LO') it will quickly kick in the 
highest fan speed - also drawing quite a bit of juice from the battery.  
Here's my suggestion:

With nothing connected to the battery, check it's voltage with a digival 
voltmeter.  12.6V is what a brand new healthy battery will produce.  12.4V 
is the lowest permissible value.  If you read less than 12.6V, it would be a 
good idea to get a trickle-charger and use it to bring your battery up to a 
100% full charge.

Next, with a fully-charged battery installed in the car, turn the key to ON, 
turn the headlights off, turn the ACC off, and wait until the ABS pump stops 
buzzing.  At this point the voltage readout should read about least 12.4V on 
the EDU readout in the dash.  If you crank the starter at this point and 
fire up the motor, the EDU will capture the lowest voltage reading reached 
during cranking.  Ideally, this will still be above 12.0V.  Even if you have 
everything turned on and crank the car right away, the lowest cranking 
voltage should stay above 11.5V.

If the pre-start (all accessories off) voltage is less than 12.2V, your 
battery is probably due for replacement.

If the lowest cranking voltage is less than 11.5V, I would again be 
concerned about the health of your battery, and about the condition of the 
primary starter wiring (the big fat red cable between the battery and the 
starter).

Once the engine is running, the EDU voltage monitor should indicate a value 
between 12.8V and 14.0V depending on how hot it is under the hood, how fast 
the engine is running, and how much electrical stuff is turned on.  If there 
are significant periods of time during which the voltage is below 12.6V, 
your alternator should be looked at.  Your car has a 115A Bosch alternator, 
which is a relatively long-lasting and sturdy unit.  After 10+ years 
however, the brushes in it will wear down, and charging performance can 
become spotty.  If caught early enough, a new brush-pack/regulator will get 
your alternator back up to peak efficiency in most cases.  It is a very easy 
job to replace this regulator in your 2.3-liter 9000.  Here's a good source 
of the part:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partspec/wizard.jsp?partner=partspec&clientid=ips-parts.com&baseurl=TARGET='_blank' HREF='http://www.ips-parts.com/'>http://www.ips-parts.com/&cookieid=0PX0V1RIT&year=1991&make=SA&model=9000-T-002&category=F&part=Voltage+Regulator


For the whole parts catalog (and on-line ordering), just go to 
http://www.ips-parts.com
>From there look up your 1991 SAAB 2.3 turbo model, Engine Electrical 
section, Voltage Regulator.  Or just call 800-897-7278 and talk to one of 
the friendly and helpful IPS parts people !

If you want to attack this in a wholesale kind of way, buy a brand new 
battery, brand new primary cable (either from SAAB, or fashion something out 
of 4-gauge or even 2-gauge generic primary cabling from a place like 
AutoZone), and a brand new regulator/brush-pack.  If you do the AutoZone 
cabling, stop by the lawnmower parts section and pick up a 6-inch long 
(6-gauge?) primary cable to run from the battery clamp to the main positive 
junction terminal on the front side of the battery tray.  About a hundred 
bucks and about an hour of tinkering will get this done.

Alternatively, you could visit an unscrupulous service establishment, pay 4 
figures for a *rebuilt* alternator plus labor plus the weakest battery that 
will fit in the car, and have your problems return within a year or two...

>  we all know what kind of mood that can do to a wife.

Nobody knows this better than me !  Just be glad you don't have a '92-'95 
9000 turbo model with Electronic Throttle and Traction Control...

Best regards,

David Prantl

Posts in this Thread:
StateOfNine.com
SaabClub.com
Jak Stoll Performance
M Car Covers
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