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Re: Seat Upholstery & MPG & Removing Brake Disks & Inflation & AIC Idle &am
Posted by David Prantl (more from David Prantl) on Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:13:45
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

I bet a reputable upholstery shop could sew up the hole so nicely that you 
would never know it was there.  I presume you did not cut-away and lose any 
material.

If you really want a new seat bottom cover, SAAB does sell them.  I have no 
idea of the cost, and think that I would not enjoy finding this out.  They 
will need the car's interior trim/color code in order to find the correct 
part number.  Here is an example:

Black K42,          47 99 243
Black K52, K22,     47 99 276
Black K32, K37,     47 99 219
---
With an 18.6-gallon tank in an early 9000 turbo, travelling at the speed 
limit on level interstates, you will cover a comfortable 500 miles before 
having to fill up !

Oh, and the super-accurate trip computer helps take the guesswork out of the 
whole experiment (that's no joke).
---
Whoa there !

If the super-skinny solid rotors on an '81 get scored or warped enough
through normal use to require turning, you'll have to turn them till there's
nothing left.

Having been there-done that, I strongly recommend procuring a new set.  They
are $30-$40 a piece IIRC. A new set of rotors, Metal-master pads,
Parking-brake-lever-o-ring/seal replacement on the front calipers (kit 89 93
727, one required per side), will have you going for 5 years without the
need for new pads or rotors.  The parking brake thing should be done every 2
years at least though, unless you want to be replacing overheated/seized
calipers.

The little screw that holds the rotor in place is no big deal.  An impact 
screwdriver works well, and if that fails, just drill out the head with a 
big-enough drill-bit.  If you then cannot remove the rest of the screw, just 
leave it.  The lug nuts/wheel studs are what's keeping the rotor secure on 
the hub anyway.

The '84 I used to have did not require a puller to remove the front rotors.  
The Haynes book was confusing, and mixed up 99 model brakes (puller 
required) with early 900.  I must say that when my 900 became DOA, the rear 
rotors were 14 years old, with 210k miles, 100k of which were mine, and they 
didn't require changing.  Hence, i never tried to take them off, but do 
recall them having the same type of little phillips-head screw tacking them 
to the hub like the front ones.

A good pre '88 900 rear brake tip:  When you get any type of new pads, also 
get the special pad-backing plates from your SAAB dealer:
89 11 737 - right - 2 required
89 11 745 - left - 2 required
The old plates may also be re-usable.  Without these, the rear brakes will 
squeal like crazy !
---
>Does anyone recall what year the 900 convertible came out?

1984 - Convertible is first shown to the public at an auto show.

1986 - Convertible first sold in the US - very limited number.  Big bumpers, 
sealed-beam headlights, etc..  Turbo 16V only IIRC.

1987 - 1993 availability was similar, and technical specs were the same as 
the 900 sedan/hatch versions.  Integrated bumper style.

1994 - Old-style 900 sedan/hatch replaced by New Generation 900, 
5-door-only.  Old-style convertible still sold this year.

1995 - NG900 available in 3-door, 5-door, and 2CV body styles.  Classic 900 
is no more...

>'59 Ford Skyliner Retractable would be the 'best' convertible.

That's a MIGHTY FINE looking automobile...
---
>  1984 900 Turbo (8V engine)

Most likely, your engine is flooding when trying to cold-start.  Depressing 
the gas pedal to the floor effectively overcomes the flooding condition by 
allowing maximum air intake during cranking.

The engine dies after startup because...  you took your foot off the gas 
pedal, the throttle closed, and the engine flooded.

The 8V CIS air-bypass valve could be having a problem, in that it may not 
open when it is supposed to.

More likely though, the warm-up regulator is not functioning well, and is 
sending too much fuel through to the cold-start injector.  The regulator 
device has a fixed fuel-pressure curve versus coolant temperature.
Cold coolant = lots of cold-start fuel pressure.
Warmer coolant = less cold-start fuel pressure.
Hot coolant = little cold-start fuel pressure.
The warm-up regulator is only found on CIS engines (8-valvers) and generally 
does not work well after 16 years of duty.  See if you can find a used one 
in a junkyard with less duty-time on it.  8-valve warm-up regulators are 
calibrated differently for different model-years, and turbo/non-turbo 
engines, so search accordingly.  A search by Bosch part number would be 
advisable.
---
You are in luck !

9000 - front fenders are bolted on to the frame members running behind/above 
the front wheels, and to the plastic inner-fender panels.  The fenders 
themselves are NOT structural parts - merely cosmetic filler/crumple-zone 
material.
Removal/replacement is quite rudimentary, unless the frame member behind the 
fender was deformed/damaged and needs to be straightened.

C900 - front fenders ARE structural parts, spot-welded to the rest of the 
chassis.  Removal and replacement is very difficult, and proper 
fitment/re-welding is essential so that the car retains it's structural 
safety properties.

Best regards,

David Prantl
david_prantlno39sdcx6spamx782hotmail.com
'84 900S, 5M, 210kMi, RIP
'86 9000T, 5M, 178kMi
'88 9000S, 5M, 137kMi
'90 9000S, 4A, 133kMi
'89 900, 3A, 115kMi
'68 97 Sonett V4, 76kMi, #000467
==================
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