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Re: Highway Whistling & Sunroof Misbehaviour & Removing Brake Disks & AIC Idle
Posted by Ywan Mason (more from Ywan Mason) on Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:36:29
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00 

A product from Wurth, Rubber Care, will work wonders on old dried out
seals. Much cheaper than new seals. Apply it every other oil change, or
at least every major service ( 30000 miles) It stops the common seal
noises and cracking.

 You might also try snugging up the doors to the frame.
---
Two things to do to rectify. One adjust the 17 mm nut on the clutch
mechanism for the roof motor.  This increases the slippage in the clutch
if you tighten down on the nut a bit.  Then run the roof until it is
closed and remove the three screws holding the motor and drop it down,
but don't unplug it. The run it with the switch until the arrows on the
blue and white gears align and reinstall it. Lube the cables where you
can access them while the motor is out   as best you can.  Then run the
roof all the way back and tighten the Phillips screws holding rails down
from above at the sunroof opening. A sparingly applied treatment of
grease on the contact pint there, and the cables where they are visible
will prevent dragging and rattles. Then tilt the roof up and use your
finger to rub Vaseline or grease into the roof seals so they won't bind
in the roof opening. Vaseline will tend to get hot and drip in you if it
gets hot in your area and you use too much. The grease stays put. if you
rub it into the seal.
---
80 model or early 99 and 900s required a totally different procedure for
disk and wheel bearing replacement, including a puller.

On the cold start problem, although it could well be a warm up regulator
( control pressure regulator) you need a chart and fuel pressure gauge
to confirm it. Some have had success with a pitman arm puller to squeeze
the old one in to adjust it. That is risky at best, for once you go to
far, there's no coming back. First two things to do to address this
problem is to make sure there are either no vacuum leaks, and no major
oil leaks. A bad front seal can act just like an open dipstick tube on
an 8V. The crankcase must be sealed reasonably well. Then get a dwell
meter and adjust the CO when the car is warm. In this area a good
reading is 30-35% when warm, although each car has it's preferred
setting and a little tinkering is necessary. Two tests after the CO is
adjusted are needed. One is to let the car sit 5 minutes after it
reaches operating temp ( after fan cycles twice) and try to restart.
Then the real test is the next morning after it gets bone cold
overnight. Coolant has not one thing to do with the warm up regulator,
It simply mounts at a convenient spot on the thermostat housing, no
coolant every touches it. It has it's own heating element to warm and
bend the bimetallic strip inside it to increase control pressure as the
car warms up. There are other 'tricks' , including a higher rated temp
switch to keep lambda cut out ( car in open loop) longer, and in really
stubborn cars, a swap of a BMW warm up regulator that has a different
pressure calibration. A new regulator of this type is around ~$115.

Look at  http://216.78.173.139/engine_folder/8185coldstartsbpg1.htm
for

details. The website will be optimized the first of the week, and speeds
for the big pages will be greatly increased, probably 30-50% faster.
---
This job takes a little moxey and some silicon, and that old stand by tool,
a soft headed hammer. I grip the window in by knees and apply the seal to
the window. You have to get it reasonable close to the original position.
Then I coat the seal with silicon spray, position the track at an angle on
one end and have at it gingerly and timidly with the hammer to beat it into
place/ Not a job for the fainthearted, I had broken a few windows doing
this. Another thing you might consider is turning it in to your insurance.
Lately, here, the insurance companies have been doing the job including
labor and clean up for less than we can buy a Saab window glass. They come
to us and do it, if they break it, they are responsible.
---
Just because the solenoid wire gets 12V from the switch, doesn't mean the
solenoid is getting the amperage it 'wants'/ Rebuild starters, or even OE
ones suffer from this syndrome especially in hot weather. We wire in an
extra less than $10 Ford solenoid to the system to get many more years from
'weak' starters, or ignition circuits. You might also want to check the
large wire for this circuit as it runs through the bulkhead connector, they
loosen and burn, adding resistance to cut the available amps. Look at what
we do to diagnose and remedy this at
http://216.78.173.139/electrical_system_folder/modstartcircuit.htm

==================
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