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Re: AC Retrofit Compressor
Posted by David Prantl (more from David Prantl) on Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:13:43
In Reply to: , Kok Chen, Sat, 17 Dec 1988 12:00:00

> I am in the process of replacing a leaking Sanden 709QU
> (r12) compressor on a -92 9k cs 2.3i (leak is in housing seal). I have
>done a bit shopping around and found out that the Sanden 7H15 (r134a)
>intendend according to part books for a 94-98 9k 2.0 will fit.

You are on the right track. A brand new compressor is always better than a
remanufactured old one. Sometimes however, it is possible to repair a
worn-out seal or gasket. The 709 shaft seal is available from
http://www.acsource.com for very little
money, and the replacement procedure

seems simple enough (doable without removing the compressor from the car).
Also realize that Sanden 7-cylinder compressors have a bolt-on cylinder head
(rear part to which the hoses are connected), and a valve-plate assembly
sandwiched between the head and the cylinder block. You can buy and replace
the gaskets in this area, once again very cheaply and easily.

If you must replace the whole compressor, a new 7H15 is the way to go.
Curiously, the latest 7H15 is assembled in a plant near Dallas, TX, and
accordingly, a generic-fit unit can be sourced here for under $250. This I
understand is about 1/3 of the dealer price for the specific-fit unit. I am
referring to the older style unit with ear-mountings, and have no experience
sourcing the new style with through-bolt mounting required for the B234
engine bracket. What was the price you were quoted ?

There are a couple of ways you can get the later compressor to fit your car.
Replace the hose assembly with a late-style one from a salvage car. Adapt
your hose assembly by cutting the crimps that hold the rubber hoses, discard
the old rubber, cut some new rubber a/c hose to fit, get the new-style Q-pad
fitting from a salvage car, and crimp everything together with a proper
crimp tool set. The easiest however would be to unbolt the head from the
new compressor, and install the old head from your 709 in it's place with
new gaskets. This strategy might allow you to use an even cheaper SD7H15
variant (if there is one available) than the one specific to the '94-'98
9000, but you may have to reuse your old 709 clutch/pulley as well in that
scenario.

David Prantl
david_prantlno39sdcx6spamx782hotmail.com
'84 900S, 5M, 210kMi, (R12/SD508), RIP
'89 900, 3A, 116kMi, (R134a-conversion/Seiko-Seiki), SOLD
'86 9000T, 5M, 188kMi (R134a-conversion/SD510)
'88 9000S, 5M, 142kMi (R134a-conversion/SD709)
'90 9000S, 4A, 133kMi (R134a-conversion/SD709Q)
'93 9000CSET, 5M, 72kMi (R134a/Seiko-Seiki)
'98 9000CSET, 5M, 59kMi (R134a/SD7H15)
'68 97 Sonett V4, 4M, 76kMi, #000467 (NO A/C !)
==================
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